How To ID A WWII 539S Carter Carb

[Ralph]

David,the source for the retainer/spring set you need is: East Coast Chevy,Ph (215)348-5586.Ask for part number 27-202D6.You get 5 or 6 sets for $15.90+ shipping.Note-say no thanks to their catalog when asked over the phone..(they have no web site) because it is thick and drives the shipping way up.All repro chevy stuff..

I just finished my 539S.On the base I used a Hi temp charcoal color,baked on progressively to 600 degrees to attain an (impervious to) fuel/chem state.It now looks just like one that was at Evansville for sale,NOS,fresh out of a black cannister.

I've tried to post it on a preview but failed.I will try again here, but wanted to send this above source info to David.[img]http:www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/mediu ... ss_016.jpg[/img]

[David H. Morganthall]

Hi Ralph, thanks for your help. My son and I have gone thru various colors and came up just today with the same type paint you mention and we agre that it looks as close to the original phosphate as you can get with paint. The issue I have with the guys comparing the parts that have been open to the elements for decades is that the color goes to light or near white because the finish has broken down from moisture and temp. I also need to locate the refernece again that states Carter DID use a lacquer coating on SOME carbs since they knew about the short shelf life of the phospahate finish. It was supposed to be for parts installed in weeks/months, not 70 years out. Once installed they did not care if it aged/rusted since it did not affect performance, I have one lacquer coated base on an early style 539 that has almost the same color as these high heat paints. I am glad to hear from you since it seems we are on the same page. I have extra links and hope to get them plated and help a few others when the washers arrive.

[wjohn]

[Ralph]

Thank you for the photo assist,Col.,very nice of you to help.

[Ralph]

David the plating sounds interesting.This was my first carb overhaul,I was lucky,it wasn't in bad shape to start.I used the 600 degree lockout temperature on a self-cleaning oven for the third tier heat.
My problem was/is how to swage a NOS throttle shaft to the crank arm.I can't find a way to securely hold the shaft w/o distorting it.Any suggestions?

[David H. Morganthall]

We are working on the same issue and will keep you informed.

[David H. Morganthall]

Chase is posting pics of a bases done by me today. I must now agree that some will indeed show a light gray or white after completion of the coating process.

[CLeBlanc]

Dave asked me to post some pics of just a few of his very nice carb bases. Enjoy gentlemen!

[PlowMB]

The color differences can be due to contamination of the parking solution, and remember as part of parking the parts should be coated liberally with oil
this will even out the finish.

[David H. Morganthall]

All done in ONE BATCH, but yes I studied and we agree upon the processes involved. The white film shows up after the part have been completed and allowed several hours to cure. It does wipe off; this film is what Chuck was thinking was part of the finish as I recall.Thanks for the input.

[Ralph]

David,they look very good.Do any/many need to be bushed? You bush your own,right? Mine was Ok-the shaft was a little worn.The NOS shaft brought it into a much better fit.Now just that problem attatching it to the crankarm.

[David H. Morganthall]

Mine are mostly well within spec, but I bush any where the shafts are loose to minimize the air gap. I have been finding that most idling problems are NOT due to air around the shaft, but due to problems with the engine or the rebuilding details missed in the carb itself. I have purposely not bushed some carbs to see if they would perform properly which they did. There re other things that get missed that cause the real trouble which I learned from the pros.

[David H. Morganthall]

Ralph, just an update on that nice looking paint----it melts in gas! I have now obtained and learned how to use the correct type finish for the bases. I will be able to help others with their finishes once I have all the equipment up and running. So far just bases are resolved. Linkage replatinf is next and then the correct bowl finishes.

[Derek Eddlestone]

Mine are mostly well within spec, but I bush any where the shafts are loose to minimize the air gap. I have been finding that most idling problems are NOT due to air around the shaft, but due to problems with the engine or the rebuilding details missed in the carb itself. I have purposely not bushed some carbs to see if they would perform properly which they did. There re other things that get missed that cause the real trouble which I learned from the pros.

David,

In an ideal world the shaft should be as close a fit as practical but I agree entirely with your findings. I know it's a sensitive topic but I'm amazed at how bad the fit can be and a WO model can still run. I've even reassembled these carbs after cleaning and set things up by eye to see what happens and they still work because they are a good basic 'no frills' design.

Derek.

[Ralph]

David,too bad about that paint and the gas.Hope your new method succeeds.I must admit I haven't tested mine,pictured a few posts above...the VHT paint directions promised a finish impervious to fuels if the correct heats were used.I'll let you know how the fuel test comes out.