rear axle question

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.

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Postby tsornes » Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:11 pm

What kind of seals are you using? Plastic? Do you have any photo?

Is sealant neccesary? I have never used any sealant when replacing seals. Maybe the sealant works as a lubricant and therefore make the seal pop out.


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Postby iron duck » Thu Jan 31, 2008 1:39 pm

If a seal pops out something is wrong with the seat or the size of the seal.
Last couple of diffs I rebuild I used plastic covered seals.
No problems at all.
No use of sealant or glue.
There is a kind of dish behind the seal, check if that ain't the problem first.
No need for a puller either, just a tool that takes the outer diameter from the seal and centers on the rubber lip.
Use a steel bar as extencion and a hamer to drive it in.
Works great, and someone can see what happens if things goes wrong.

Kind regards, Luc
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Postby Carsten » Thu Jan 31, 2008 1:46 pm

I don't have a picture of the specific oil seal, but it is the same kind as this one for the transfer case, just a different size, of course! Yes, the outer ring is made of some kind of plastic, not metal:

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Maybe i shouldn't have used sealant on it? Just wanted to make sure no oil would pass around the seal... :?
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Postby iron duck » Thu Jan 31, 2008 1:53 pm

Hi Carsten,

Sealant or not, it may not flip out !!
Look further and you will find.
If I recall right, it should be 2" outer diameter, right ?
I used the same type of seal on mine, and they went in pretty easy, and didn't come out.
Are they disformed when they come out please ?
If so, you could not keep it straight while pulling it in.
That's why I like to punch them in.
Much more controle to keep it straight.

Luc
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Postby Carsten » Thu Jan 31, 2008 2:02 pm

I don't have them right here, but i'm pretty sure they are the right size! They went in like they should, and one of them sits fine! Also, they were the same diameter as th old metal ones! No, it didn't deform when it came out! I have used these in other places before, and i think they are better than the metal seals!
Should it matter whether it id pulled or hammered in?
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Postby iron duck » Thu Jan 31, 2008 2:29 pm

Should it matter whether it id pulled or hammered in?


No it shouldn't matter, as long as they are kept straight.
When punching it in someone has a better view on things and can correct easilly when needed.

The rubber covered seals are perfect for use without sealant.
If they are the right size they go in pretty easy.
Sealant can't be a negative adition, certainly no cause for popping out.

That's why I am almost sure that the one that came out was actually never in the seat.

I advise to check the seal for the right measurment, check the seat if it is damaged ( which I doubth ) , check if the cup behind the seal is OK, make sure you pull the seal perfectly straight and lined up with the seat.
It shall work if everything mentioned above is right.

Succes, Luc
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Postby artificer » Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:20 pm

Don't use any sealant on that type of seal...I believe that is the problem. The "hydraulics" is what is causing the ejection of the seal after fitting similar to if you used grease. Give it a go with nothing, that's what they were designed to do. Also there are some metric look alikes. Some are slightly smaller and others larger in OD v/s original.
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Postby iron duck » Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:57 pm

Something you certainly know but I like to mention it anyway, the lip should point to the differential.
Otherwise the axle shaft can push the seal out when installing.


Also there are some metric look alikes. Some are slightly smaller and others larger in OD v/s original.


Don't use metric seals, they won't fit.

Best regards, Luc
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Postby maeserik » Fri Feb 01, 2008 1:34 am

question same time, is there a paper ring behind the seal, as shown in the TM pictures, or is there no need for this ?

our axles are sandblasted now and we wil dissasemble them to change the seals and brakeparts and to clean/grease all the bearings

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Postby Carsten » Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:52 pm

Checked the seal again last night, after i had it sitting for a couple of days, suspended with the threaded rod and washers! Everything is good, and it now sits very tight! Guess it was the sealant i used, that made it pop out twice, but once it dried up, the seal sits where it should!

One should not use sealant on plastic covered seals
One should not use sealant on plastic covered seals
One should not use sealant on plastic covered seals
One should not use sealant on plastic covered seals
One should not use sealant on plastic covered seals
One....

:oops:
:roll:
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Postby iron duck » Sun Feb 03, 2008 1:10 pm

Hi Carsten,

Good news that your problem is solved !
Only I can not believe that the sealant was the cause for the fact your seal popped out.
There must be another reason for that.
Anyway, it's in now, and it won't pop out anymore if the sealant is sticky.

Kind regards, Luc
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Postby artificer » Sun Feb 03, 2008 2:38 pm

Only I can not believe that the sealant was the cause for the fact your seal popped out.
Try it and you will experience what happens, same as putting grease on it. These seals have been designed with ridges which compress and seal in the retaining grove using friction to remain in place. The unneeded sealant fills these grooves and acts as a lubricant.
There are some R rated comparisons.
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Postby Johnr » Sun Feb 03, 2008 9:47 pm

artificer wrote:
There are some R rated comparisons.


:lol:
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Postby petesilfven » Tue Feb 05, 2008 1:20 pm

45 years ago, working at a VW and Porsche dealership, one of the first things I learned from the factory trained German mechanic in charge of the machine shop was to NEVER use sealant on a rubber coated European style oil seal, because it would squeeze out of its recess. Especially on a rear main seal, because the result would be a destroyed engine.
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Postby Garry Fincher » Tue Feb 05, 2008 4:00 pm

I would of thought the sealant would be compressed between the seal and the housing when the seal is installed and the resulting hydraulic pressure would overcome the friction holding in the plastic seal in & pop the seal back out.

Makes sense to me.

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