Transmission removal

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.
Tim Kline
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Tim Kline » Sat Feb 11, 2017 9:08 pm

Well, I got it off, kept the cross member on. One big heavy unit, have to get a socket for the nut on the gear on the transfer case. I will sore in the morning.
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by marsq5 » Sun Feb 12, 2017 5:54 am

I tie a string with a slip knot on the cable end an use a strong magnet on the other end. Works good if you have big hands
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Tim Kline
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Tim Kline » Sun Feb 12, 2017 9:29 pm

Tim Kline wrote:Thanks' guys, upon pictures I have taken, first and reverse have ground of edges, so the cluster gear is also probably messed up too. So, it looks like a rebuild is coming.

I got it apart, the reverse-low gear is all chewed up, countershaft is good, second gear has to go, shift rail high is bad. The rest is OK. Metal shavings are everywhere. Ordered parts from Ron, will clean up the rest while awaiting parts.
Tim Kline
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Tim Kline » Sat Mar 04, 2017 5:16 pm

How do you get the snap ring in the main drive gear shaft to keep the bearings in?
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Ralph » Sat Mar 04, 2017 8:43 pm

Tim it's really the gob of assembly lube that keeps them in.
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by floater » Sun Mar 05, 2017 6:05 am

Tim brings up an interesting point about the MDG and a "snap ring" that holds the 13 needle rollers in.

I'm in the throes of rebuilding my T-84 as well, and I'm fortunate enough to have four MDGs to play with (the old one and three NOS ones). Some of the MDGs have a WIRE ring in the end of them which forms a smooth lip to contain the needle rollers - other MDGs do not have the wire ring. I call it a wire ring because unlike all the other snap rings we deal with this wire ring does not have a squared-off sharp edge.

Exploded diagrams of the T-84 show this wire ring as a light "C" shape superimposed over the front gasket - but it's not labelled as a part in any of the diagrams I have...kind of odd. I do know I'd never attempt to take it out, much less put it back in, and as it's not really a "part" as per the SNL I guess you won't find new ones.

Is this a Willys vs. Ford thing?

So Tim - don't take it out! And if your MDG doesn't have a wire ring, Ralph is correct - assembly lube holds the needle rollers in.

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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Tim Kline » Sun Mar 05, 2017 4:02 pm

Too late! I took it out weeks ago when I took apart the transmission :shock: To get it back in.... I have a t-84 kit that has the ring, but it seems to big to get in where is supposed to go. ( The one that came out was deformed and didn't go all the way around)
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Ralph » Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:43 pm

Tim,as a retaining/pilot ring I don't think it's suppose to go all the way around,as it needs to flex a little to go in.I'd try to get one in there...once the pilot end of the mainshaft enters the roller bearing well,it bears in/on this little ring.
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Tim Kline » Tue Mar 07, 2017 9:40 am

I got it in with surprisingly not much of a problem, put one end in and took a punch and followed it until it went in.
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Tim Kline » Sun Mar 19, 2017 9:19 am

As further I got into the Transmission, The more I had to replace. lucky to have the parts on hand. Driving new bushings in the cluster was not too bad, Having smashed my middle finger on my left hand with the hammer, Twice. Ready to reassemble after my giving my finger a few days if I don't have to go to the hospital. What's the best way to put the tranny and gearbox back on the jeep? Put the tranny on first, then the gear box or both at once?
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by artificer » Sun Mar 19, 2017 12:00 pm

All transmission clearances correct, mainshaft adjusted properly for correct depth then both cases fully assembled, sealed including threads into oil, fit the bellhousing & the crossmember is the easiest way.
Make sure the clutch plate [right way round] & spigot bush [greased] are in good condition & the plate is properly centred.

I would recommend bushes be either pushed or pulled into place rather than driven.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: Transmission removal

Post by dinof » Sun Mar 19, 2017 3:54 pm

I use 2 floor jacks. one under the trans, one under the transfer case. Support these items and loosen the trans to bell housing bolts and roll jacks backwards. Same with assembly except I put 2 studs or bolts with the heads cut off about 2 " on opposite sides where the trans meets bell housing. This guides the input shaft in smoothly. simple.
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Chuck Lutz
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Chuck Lutz » Sun Mar 19, 2017 5:25 pm

I think the circular snap ring inset into the rear of the main gear is there for a reason...when the T84 is assembled, the roller bearings will not back out of the Main Gear. However, if you have had to remove/replace/remove/replace the main shaft in order to get the spacer sorted out, they will fall out of position if you are not careful. They can do that in two ways, first as you remove the main shaft one or two may fall into the main gear pocket and you may not even know it....until you try to assemble the T84! Secondly, if the snap ring is missing, as you draw back the main gear the grease adhesion to the roller bearings may pull one or two out which conveniently fall into the bottom of the case.

So...what is that snap ring for?
1) if in place, the rollers will not slide back with the nose of the main gear (yay!)
2) if in place, you may find it hard to get the roller bearings in there....unless the last one you slide in is where the gap in the snap ring is.
3) should you remove it? Uh, if you are using the same main gear then leave it alone and put in new roller bearings
4) if you bought a new main gear without the snap ring, trying to remove it from the old one and put it into the new one is a good idea
5) do you NEED it? Once correctly assembled you don't...during fitting of the main shaft spacer issues, it is a good thing to have.
6) I have never heard of anyone having the roller bearings walk out of the main gear...they only end out in the case or tipped over when you are removing/replacing the main shaft
Chuck Lutz

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Tim Kline
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by Tim Kline » Mon Mar 20, 2017 7:11 pm

artificer wrote:All transmission clearances correct, mainshaft adjusted properly for correct depth then both cases fully assembled, sealed including threads into oil, fit the bellhousing & the crossmember is the easiest way.
Make sure the clutch plate [right way round] & spigot bush [greased] are in good condition & the plate is properly centred.

I would recommend bushes be either pushed or pulled into place rather than driven.
The bushing for the reverse idler went in fine, The Cluster gear not so much, The first one is where I banged up my finger when it was too slowly going in. My finger is now Technicolor. The second one, after I had to cut a line in the bushing, that went in fine. After bleeding all over myself and garage I stopped for the night. Would it be easier to mount the transmission first then the transfer case, or put them both together on the cross brace and try it that way?
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Re: Transmission removal

Post by artificer » Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:17 pm

Tim wrote:put them both together on the cross brace [cross member] and try it that way?
That is the way I always do & recommend it be done.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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