Use a few drips of bleach in water and wash your uniform (NO WOOLS!!) in this mix. Wash untill you get the desired faded look. Do that once daily and you will see it fade more quickly than in two years.
Get a knife, and use the blade straight up and down, and rub the cuffs untill the cuffs get thin and start to unravel.
Use gun oil, or house hold oil and put a few satins on your garment. Chest, elbows, knees and misc. areas will make it look REALLY used. Rub your dirty hands, or wipe your dirty face on your patches. They will look aged after a few times. Your body oil is the best stuff to age ANYTHING!
Crates, ie. wood items.:
Light stain and or linseed oil works pretty good to darken the wood. Light varnish looks good to give it a shine.
Rub your hands in used black engine oil, wipe them off, and then rub on bottom corners, edges of lids, carry handles, and what ever you think would be an area of use. If painted, use a dull blade and scrape the edges lightly and flake the paint, and put scratches in the high use areas.
3) Aged metal hardware:
Metal items that are nickle plated or have a chrome look can be dulled quickly using heat. You can watch the shine go away as its heated. Sit the entire crate out next to your lawn, the sprinklers will further rust the metal and run black streaks down the wood. The sun will even the age out and it doesn't take long.
Most shoes (except for paratrooper boots) show up in a vegatable tan color. Get brown leather dye and dye them brown. Then use Leather New (or leather soap) and soak them in it. Then use leather conditioner paste and rub them down. They will be ready for use the next day. For M43 Double Buckle boots, do the same, but use brown leather polish on the cuffs, and shine them up a bit. They will not get very shinny, but will look just like original ones do. Paratrooper boots only need polish. Normal conditioning keeps them looking old, and preserve their integrity.
Getting the right color paint is the first step. The best (go out and buy) paint with the closest correct color, is made by Mobile Paint Manufacturing Co. Inc. O.D. color No. 123-49. Its used by hunters, and sold at sproting goods, and some surplus stores. The front says BLP Mobile Paints and has a duck and a deer printed on it. I dont care what anyone says, its THE BEST color and 98% close to the comon minty helmet color for around 6 bucks.
After painting your helmet, get a knife and scrape the brim. All original photos of G.I.s have their helmets brim losing their paint, and have a shine . So, scrape and flake your brim up. If the helmet has good cork texture, turn it upside down, and press down, and roll the top. This flattens the cork, and since the G.I. sits on his helmet and lays it upside down, a smoother top will result.
Chin straps. Take the hardware and use a patch of sand paper to rub away the black on the edges. Next, hit them with heat. Get them hot, and let them cool on their own. The shinny, turns to dull. Next is the cloth straps. Got a dirty face? This sounds silly, but rub the traps on your oily, nasty face. They will dirty up nicely! Make sure they are adjusted to the length they will remain in (back of helmet, or worne under chin) so they dirty in its natural spots. Your body oil will put green stains on the cloth from the brass hardware. The same goes for the susspension. But after about 6 days of sitting on top of your sweaty, dirty nasty head, the webbing will start to look original.
Do the same to the leather as you did with your boots.
If you have or want markings, use Flat Almond, or Flat Ice Cream white paint. Mark your helmet by hand or free handed. This gives it character. After the paint is dry, lightly bub the markings with emory cloth. The only paint coming off is off the tops of the cork. It gives it a pebbled look. Take a knife and strike it accross the markings. Scratch them up a bit. Like you dove through a bush.
Not that I have no life and devote my time to aging stuff. But Ive been colecting and restoring WWII stuff since I was 8.