M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Very Nice! I am putting together a Sarco tripod and would like to know the length of the legs. Thanks----DanG.
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M-1917A1 Tripod Leg Length
Okay, I'm going to post all of the details here for the length of the legs on the M1917A1 Tripod. I have rebuilt six of these and currently have three in my collection and from what I have seen there is some slight variation of the original length - or definition of the correct length. These are the measurements for the original M1917A1 tripods, not tripods modified later for the 75mm recoilless rifle, flame thrower, punk'in-chucker or any post-WWII modification.
First, start with a completely assembled, finished, cradle pintle socket - the big brass center of the whole tripod. If this piece is not assembled correctly first, stop right there and finish that. You can braze it back together or what I use is DEVCON brass/bronze industrial epoxy. It is expensive, but machinable, sandable and perfect for a display tripod. The socket MUST be blasted to bare metal or the epoxy will not bond correctly. It has to mate to the parent metal. Do not cut corners on this.
I do not know if you can shoot off of it, I have not tried.
Leg sizes:
Front Legs:
Start with the front legs (the two short ones). Note: the feet on the bottom of the legs are angled. This was done so they can be pressed into the ground for stability during shooting. Google some pictures to see how they are angled.
The size: measured from the top of the foot, along the side of the tube, to above the top weld before it starts to taper, 16 7/8". Do not weld yet. Use some angle iron and clamp the two leg sections so that the size can be slightly adjusted. Attach them to the cradle pintle socket. Do not weld yet!!
Rear Leg:
The rear leg (the long leg) 19 1/2" for the tube, as measured on the side of the tube, from the bottom of the "U" at the top and above the top of the foot (including the welds). Clamp the leg with some 90 degree channel and attach it to the completed cradle pintle socket. Do not weld yet!!!
Finally:
Sit a level on the top of the cradel pintel socket, front to back and side to side. Adjust the leg length slightly so that the top of the cradle is level, front to back - side to side. Adjust the leg length as necessary based on the level sitting on the top. I've seen slight variation of a 1/4" in length...so I've used a level on every one of my builds so it sits normal looking (and would shoot level too)!
As long as it sits and looks correctly, no one will get out a ruler and check to see if your leg length is incorrectly off by an 1/8"!!!
Hope this helps! Good luck!
First, start with a completely assembled, finished, cradle pintle socket - the big brass center of the whole tripod. If this piece is not assembled correctly first, stop right there and finish that. You can braze it back together or what I use is DEVCON brass/bronze industrial epoxy. It is expensive, but machinable, sandable and perfect for a display tripod. The socket MUST be blasted to bare metal or the epoxy will not bond correctly. It has to mate to the parent metal. Do not cut corners on this.
I do not know if you can shoot off of it, I have not tried.
Leg sizes:
Front Legs:
Start with the front legs (the two short ones). Note: the feet on the bottom of the legs are angled. This was done so they can be pressed into the ground for stability during shooting. Google some pictures to see how they are angled.
The size: measured from the top of the foot, along the side of the tube, to above the top weld before it starts to taper, 16 7/8". Do not weld yet. Use some angle iron and clamp the two leg sections so that the size can be slightly adjusted. Attach them to the cradle pintle socket. Do not weld yet!!
Rear Leg:
The rear leg (the long leg) 19 1/2" for the tube, as measured on the side of the tube, from the bottom of the "U" at the top and above the top of the foot (including the welds). Clamp the leg with some 90 degree channel and attach it to the completed cradle pintle socket. Do not weld yet!!!
Finally:
Sit a level on the top of the cradel pintel socket, front to back and side to side. Adjust the leg length slightly so that the top of the cradle is level, front to back - side to side. Adjust the leg length as necessary based on the level sitting on the top. I've seen slight variation of a 1/4" in length...so I've used a level on every one of my builds so it sits normal looking (and would shoot level too)!
As long as it sits and looks correctly, no one will get out a ruler and check to see if your leg length is incorrectly off by an 1/8"!!!
Hope this helps! Good luck!
Thanks,
Van
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Van
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Thank You for the information, I am going to try brazing the pintle socket together first and if that does not work I will use the epoxy. I see what you mean about starting there so you can get the top of the socket level and the legs at the right length. This is going to be a display tripod and I would like it to look correct.---dang.
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Great stuff as usual Van! I'm curious about the finishes on the various components of the 1917A1 cradle and tripod though. Which parts were generally parkerized, and which were painted? I've been looking on line and can see multiple variations. In some cases the brass traverse ring is left bare, in others painted. Same for the clamping levers. So how did you go about deciding which to paint, what to leave bare, and what to parkerize?
Thanks,
Duane
Thanks,
Duane
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Thank you for the praise! Great question! And I don't completely have an answer. Most of my restorations I pay attention to the parts as I strip them, to see original color or finish and replicate it. Sometimes though, I have to improvise, and use paint or simulated finish to hide welds or filling. These mounts were in service for many decades and went through many rebuilds. My objective is to complete a representative example that preserves history and is optically pleasing with care and details. I really hope I get it kinda close! Again, thank you!
Thanks,
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Is there a difference in tripod heads? I got two complete ones in. One appears to be all brass the other cast steel with a brass azimuth ring. Early manufacture vs. late?
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Here's another question Van; my traversing hand wheel is steel, while the elevating hand wheel appears to be aluminum. Is this common? Do you happen to have a steel elevating hand wheel available?
Duane
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Tripod head? Go to the first page and look at the manual designations for each part so we can help identify your part question.
Thanks,
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Quite common actually. I've seen both in mixed parts rebuilds and parts kits being offered for sale.
I just looked through my left-over parts pile and I do not have any spare wheels of either type. Honestly, it will look fine if you have one of each. You can always paint them, and they will match!
Thanks,
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
- David_4x4
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Head, socket, place you put cradle into, female part of tripod for male part of cradle etc
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
The Cradle Pintle Socket, that the three legs attach to, were made of both brass or cast steel. The steel version I believe was introduced in 1943.
Thanks,
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
My M1919A1 Tripod I purchased from forum member KRation. Excellent restoration in my opinion. There is one thing I am thinking about changing however, the brass cradle pintle socket was demilled and has been repaired. The repair was painted over with paint to try to cover as best as possible. I was going to paint the socket a WW2 correct OD green but was unsure the difficulty of taking the legs and dial off? Is this a difficult task? I’m pretty handy but wasn’t sure of the level of difficulty?
Thanks in advance.
bfryar44
Thanks in advance.
bfryar44
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
The legs come off very easily!
Repainting it would not be difficult at all!
Good looking tripod.
Repainting it would not be difficult at all!
Good looking tripod.
Thanks,
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
Van,
Have you ever removed the studs for the front legs? Any advice on how to remove these? The manual says to "drive out pin and unscrew stud". I cannot see any pin and how do you unscrew these?
Second question on removal of the pintle clamping screw assembly. The only pin I see appears to be a rivet headed pin. How do you remove this assembly?
Thanks!
Duane
Have you ever removed the studs for the front legs? Any advice on how to remove these? The manual says to "drive out pin and unscrew stud". I cannot see any pin and how do you unscrew these?
Second question on removal of the pintle clamping screw assembly. The only pin I see appears to be a rivet headed pin. How do you remove this assembly?
Thanks!
Duane
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Re: M-1917A1 Tripod, Parts Exchange and Reference
No, I have never removed the leg studs and would not recommend it.
As for the rear (long) leg, that is correct, you have to drive out that rivet if it is still present. If it is, I wouldn't remove it.
As for the rear (long) leg, that is correct, you have to drive out that rivet if it is still present. If it is, I wouldn't remove it.
Thanks,
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
Van
Kosovo, Afghanistan (x2) and Iraq Campaign Veteran
"If the DUKW was introduced in 1944 it would have been called a FUKW."
45 GMC DUKW (105mm)
42 Ford GPW
44 Willys MB
44 Clark CA-1
43 Studebaker T-24
42 Harley WLA
44 Cushman 53
42 Willys MBT
44 Columbia F-92L
43 Huffman G-519
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