We had a long weekend here in Canada, so I managed to get a reasonable amount of C1 work done. It was getting to be time to sandblast and paint the recoil mechanism, but first that leak had to be repaired. It was a leak at the filler plug, and according to weapons techs that I had talked to, it was almost always attributable to a leather washer under the filler plug collar. First the plug is removed (1/2" wrench required) and an oil pricker installed to remove any oil out of the reservoir. After 23 years of leaking, there was not a lot of oil left to drain....maybe a 1/4 of a quart. The oil indicator is in the hole below, and is all the way in, meaning the reservoir is low or empty. When the oil level is correct, it will extend out to the face of the cylinder.
Then there is a small set screw to remove.
With a drag link socket the seat can be removed. I found the seat to be fairly tight and a 3/4 ratchet was used to crack it. After that, it came out almost by hand. A bit more oil will come out at this point.
Below are shown the oil pricker tool, the filler plug, the set screw, and the seat and gasket.
What I did was cut a second thin leather gasket to sit underneath the original one. Here they are ready to go back in.
At this point the oil reservoir must be replenished. I knew I had an old can of the MIL-5606G hydraulic oil somewhere (the older spec 515 type would be ok too) and sure enough a 10 year old can was found. To replenish it, the oil gun is disassembled at the top, the tool filled with oil, and the tool re-assembled.
The brass tip cover is removed to drain any air out.
The tool is then threaded into the filler port. As the gun is inserted into the filler hole a last squirt is done to remove any air from the tip. The handle is turned to force the oil in. The first 3 fills went in easy (one hand to install) but the fourth one got tight, and required two hands.
By the fifth fill of the tool, the indicator was coming out and was fully out before the tool was empty. There is no indicator for overfull so you have to stop when the indicator is flush with the face of the head.
The filler plug is then re-installed. Now it was time to move the recoil to the shed and sandblast it. This took a little longer than some of the other pieces because of all the angles. Below is the blasted assembly.
And painted. I am happy to report that there is no evidence of leakage from the filler plug onto my new paint, so it looks like the problem was solved.
Barrel put back onto the recoil, recoil back onto the cradle, and the travel lock installed with the erar of the equilabrator in place.
Well, that's where it sits now. In the next few days I will lift the barrel up as far as it takes to hook the equilabrator up to the upper carriage bracket. Apparently my bearings for the elevation are waiting at the border so I can move onto that later in the week. It is all small stuff now, although I still have a want list that needs to be filled before completion of the project.