Like many scientific discoveries, some of the best stuff is often found by accident.
As mentioned in a previous post, I was performing service on the trunnion bearings on my CCKW. As most people know, this requires the spring seat to be removed. Since I wanted to remove the spring and spring seat separately, I need remove the two 7/8” bolts that clamp the lower leaves to the spring seat.
Despite several days of applying penetrating oil, and a judicious application of heat, I could only get one of the four bolts out. The other three just sat there and laughed at my ¾” impact, which rattled away without budging them. Fortunately, the slotted design of the spring seat, which provides for the clamping of the spring, also allows ready access to the bolts with a cut-off disc. Once cut, the end of the bolt with the hex head came out easily, however removing the threaded end looked to be much more challenging.
I cut a flat spot on each side of the bolt end that was still sticking out. The cuts were deep enough to fit a 5/8” open end wrench on the end of the bolt. I also drilled a hole down the end of the bolt – thinking that perhaps it would help relieve some of the internal pressure of the bolt in the hole.
Next came some heat – in much more liberal amount than I was comfortable with when the seat was still on the truck. However, even with the end of the spring seat red hot, that bolt would not move. I almost pulled the spring seat out of the vise while pulling on the wrench.
As the seat started to cool back down, it took me a minute or two to reset it in the vise. To my surprise, as I repositioned the wrench in preparation for the next attempt, the bolt started to move! I mean it moved so easily, you could have almost turned it by hand (if you wanted burned fingers that is). With only minimum pressure on the wrench it came right out.
What I think happened, is that the hole in the end of the bolt allowed it to cool faster than the spring seat. The rust in the threads acted as a sort of insulator and as it shrank, its threads pulled away from the threads in the spring seat.
To test my theory, I tried it again. This time without applying nearly as much heat to the spring seat. I leaned on the wrench and again, nothing happened. I then blew a little compressed air into the hole drilled into the end of the bolt. Viola, it came right out.
OK... So maybe this chance discovery is not in the same league as potato chips or penicillin, but I think it is pretty cool. I know that its not always possible to drill down the length of a bolt, but when it is, I am certainly going to give it a try the next time I need to remove a stubborn, rusty fastener.
Best Regards…..
Tip for Removing Rusty Bolts
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Re: Tip for Removing Rusty Bolts
Mudflap, you are exactly correct! The hole takes some tension off the bolt and allows it to cool faster like you said. Im a field mechanic for the CAT dealership in St. Louis and we do it alot. We also get pins seized in their bores sometimes. Pins for hyd. cylinders and such. We take a lancing rod and melt holes through the middle of them. The trick with that is to melt the hole and continue to burn material out to get the pin even hotter. Its faster if you do that instead of starting and stopping alot. When done right you can hear the pin crackling and releasing from the bore as it cools. Then it comes right out.
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Re: Tip for Removing Rusty Bolts
I've dealt with many "rusted stuck" fasteners in my day, as being an Auto Technician in the "rust belt" part of the country will make one proficient at removing stubborn under body components, even on much newer vehicles. I always like seeing different ways of dealing with this problem, or even a different take on a way I'm familiar with, as it gives all of us new tools in the arsenal to battle the war against rust on our beloved old vehicles. Thanks for the tips.
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Re: Tip for Removing Rusty Bolts
Bob,
You're a clever fellow.
A variation on this, but the same principle, that allows the reuse of the bolt, is to heat, then quench the assembly. Not always possible. I guess the rapid change in size brought on by the quenching is what 'breaks' the rusts' hold on the threads.
But then, there is the issue of the change in metallurgy brought on by the heating/cooling.
Sam.
You're a clever fellow.
A variation on this, but the same principle, that allows the reuse of the bolt, is to heat, then quench the assembly. Not always possible. I guess the rapid change in size brought on by the quenching is what 'breaks' the rusts' hold on the threads.
But then, there is the issue of the change in metallurgy brought on by the heating/cooling.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.
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Re: Tip for Removing Rusty Bolts
Hey, don't sell yourself short. In the mechanical world, I would put it above potato chips.mudflap wrote: ↑Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:43 pm
OK... So maybe this chance discovery is not in the same league as potato chips or penicillin, but I think it is pretty cool. I know that its not always possible to drill down the length of a bolt, but when it is, I am certainly going to give it a try the next time I need to remove a stubborn, rusty fastener.
Best Regards…..
"None of us are as smart as all of us"
1942 GPW 1871 DoD 2-27-42 Dallas Plant
1945 GPW 247890 DoD 1-26-45 Louisville Plant
1942 GTB 136166 DoD 9-18-42
1942 GTB 135938 DoD
1952 M100
1942 GPW 1871 DoD 2-27-42 Dallas Plant
1945 GPW 247890 DoD 1-26-45 Louisville Plant
1942 GTB 136166 DoD 9-18-42
1942 GTB 135938 DoD
1952 M100
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Re: Tip for Removing Rusty Bolts
Ditto!!!!
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.
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Re: Tip for Removing Rusty Bolts
It also works when you put the wrench in the freezer first for 20-30 minutes, then heat the item, grab the wrench and spin out the bolt.
1951 Reo M48 Deuce Tractor
1953 Studebaker M59 Deuce Dump
1962 Dodge M37B1 w/w
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1961 AMC M422A1 Mighty Mite
1961 AMC M422A1 Mighty Mite
1953 Studebaker M59 Deuce Dump
1962 Dodge M37B1 w/w
1951 Jeep M38
1961 AMC M422A1 Mighty Mite
1961 AMC M422A1 Mighty Mite
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