torque rod bushings

[sixbysix]

am after torque rod bushings for my Studebaker us6 - the rubber bushings look like they are wanting to 'push out' of the end of most of the torque rods ....

[Joe Gopan]

WWII US-6 or Korean era M-35 6X6?

[motto]

It's the WW2 US-6 that he has Joel. There are hardly any of the M-35s in this country, same goes for M-38s and M-37s.
If your truck has the early style torque rods with the rubberised ball ends then there is nothing can be done short of replacing the entire rod assembly. Even the later pattern rods with replaceable ends have to be discarded when worn out as the ball ends to my knowledge were never supplied as a spares item. This is strange as Dodge did supply the ball ends separately for their 6x6 which are identical in design but smaller.
Be wary if purchasing rods as there is a difference in length between the US-6 and CCKW banjo diff/DUKW.

David

[Joe Gopan]

There actually were kits for the later replaceable graphite impregnated pins, I have one set left, and they are GI ISSUE, and have been on our shelf since before the 50's. The part number for these does not show up in any SNL's for the CCKW or US-6
Memphis Equipment had several hundred Split axle Torque Rods at their Chambersburg location which closed in 2005. They have long since disappeared.
Banjo Torque Rods have been in short supply for years, DUKW owners have gobbled up the supply over the decades I used to shorten the longer TIMKEN ones to fit Banjo GMC and DUKW.

[sixbysix]

Hi Joel
my US-6 is a reasonably early model either a late '42 or early '43 - one of the earliest model studebakers in the country (the majority being '44's or '45's)
so just wondering if the torque rods (s)? you have left would be suitable ....

[Joe Gopan]

What is strange are all the CCKW and US-6 type 2-1/2 ton 6X6 type trucks out there and prior to this, not one peep about Torque Rod concerns. Am sure there are many CCKW's in use with worn out torque rod ends.
I'm holding mine for spares, am sure that the Torque Rods for CCKW with Timken Axles are same as US-6. Banjo Torque Rods are too short. No Kits to repair the ends are listed, but they did exist as I have one set of graphite impregnated type. Will check to see if any rods exist. Best to avoid using any loose rubber type as they can pull apart.

[Marty, SoCal]

I wonder if you could find some civilian application that would work, or could be modified to work?

Here's a couple that look similar to the rods I've seen in pictures of US-6 suspension:
http://www.nickstruckparts.com/tmr613.html
http://www.nickstruckparts.com/tmr615.html

Might be worth a visit to a local truck parts supplier.

Another thought, a buddy of mine makes custom engine mounts for Honda's the engine side from one vehicle, and the frame side from another. He uses pourable Urethane rubber compound. It's a two part mix, after cleaning off the old rubber you center the two parts where they need to be, the pour the Urethane around them it hardens and the part is good enough to hold 600+ horses on a turbo drag race car.
These websites show the concept:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/pr ... rod=DIYMMI
http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/auto ... mounts.htm

My friend buys his Urethane from McMasterCarr, but other industrial suppliers usually have it, too.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#urethane-casti ... ds/=uvuzdq

[Joe Gopan]

Here are the lengths of Banjo and Timken Torque Rods for the CCKW (US 6 uses the Timken Split Axle type.

GM 2066894 SPLIT AXLE------ 19 3/4" between stud centers.
GM 2146579 BANJO AXLE----- 18 1/4" between stud centers

[Shane Hodby]

Hi sixbysix
I have a full set of torque rods on the shelf and they are in good condition if you are interested I think from memory we have spoken before send me a pm if you are interested
Cheers
Shane

[sixbysix]

I have a complete Timken axle that I thought was from a Studebaker US6. However the torque rods attached to it measure 21 1/4". Does anyone know what is likely to have come off? ...and can I use the drums, hubs, inner axles etc on my Stude US6?

[Lowrdrbird]

Should be able to if I'm not mistaken the timkens are the same.
Ken

[mudflap]

Have some CCKW torque rod questions....

I recently noticed that there was some play in the joint on the left rear torque rod (banjo axle). I would hear a "clunk" from that area every time the truck would start to move if the steering wheel was turned. Figure it was the axle shifting.

Decided to replace both lower torque rods while I was at it. Purchased two new ones from a source in europe. Noticed there are several differences between the new and old ones:

The old joints have a ball encased in some extremely hard rubber material *. I mean this stuff has virtually no compliance at all. Movement of the rod is accommodated by the ball rotating in this rubber material.

In contrast, the new parts have what appears to be a pin encapsulated in rubber. I can't see inside, but it almost appears that any movement would come thru the rubber flexing, as opposed to relative movement of the pin in the joint.

The OD of the joint on the new rod has more of a spherical shape, and is slightly larger, too.

Not too worried any of the above, but there is one difference that concerns me. The diameter of the pin on the new torque rods is approx. 0.015" larger than on the old ones. I know 0.015" does not sound like much, but based on the taper of that interface, it means that the new torque rod pin sticks out nearly ¼” farther than the old ones did. It does not allow full engagement of the threads on the nut, if the standard split lock washer is used.

Has anyone experienced this ?

Does anyone have an alternate source for torque rods, or know of a place that can rebuild them?

I found a place online that says they specialize in DUKW torque rods, but they are in New Zealand. Thinking shipping back and forth to the US would be pretty expensive.

https://www.hbiengineering.com/projects ... 8dzx-9gart

Does anyone know how many types of joints were used, and how they were constructed?

Thanks...

Best Regards...

* Note update, below.

[fernando mendes]

"Brush hydraulic brake fluid on rubber bushing at regular lubrication periods"(page 16-10) TM10-1563.

[D.R.H.]

If I may suggest. Why not use 2 part Polyurethane rubber. I have had great success with Weasel bogie wheels and the torque arms between the axles and knee action shocks in my Chevy. I have some of the compound left over from work I did earlier this year. If you would like to give it a shot, you may send me 1 torque arm to use as a test and I'll bond it up for free. You pay for the shipping from and to your location. P.M. for more details.

Here are some photos of my work.





The ends do spin within the rubber which allows for clean movement.

[mudflap]

I would like to make an update to my post, above.

WRT to the bushing material, it is actually steel!! It is not hard rubber as I originally thought.

Not sure if there is/was any other material inside the ball and socket joint - or if the ball just rides on the steel socket. I had always thought that these were rubber - since the TM recommends putting brake fluid on them to keep the rubber soft.

So were some designs actually made of rubber? Or, is there rubber material inside the joint that the brake fluid is supposed to help?

Is this design the "graphite impregnated pin" type that Joe mentions in a previous post? If so, it would seem that brake fluid may not the best thing to put on them - although I'm not exactly sure which lubricant would be best.

Hi DRH,

Thank you very much for the polyurethane offer! Knowing what I know now, that looks to be a great repair to take some of the play out of the joint.

Unfortunately, this one was extremely stubborn and did not want to come off no matter how much force I applied to it. I went to plan B, which entailed cutting the pin with a Sawzall, drilling and tapping it, then pulling it out with a piece of 5/8" threaded rod.

I did not think this was going to be a big deal, since I was planning on replacing it anyway. In retrospect, I wish I would have spent more time with the BFH - and maybe added some heat.

Lastly, has anyone ever actually tried pressing out those bushings ? It does not look like the opening is rolled or crimped, but I'm not sure.

Best Regards..