Speed up a 969?

[kw573]

Hello all,
My ability to use this system is still failing me. Thanks for the advice 40 Chevy.
This is my attempt to use a photo host to continue reporting my now-much-slower rebuild. The weather has cooled and I'm still plagued with a cold that won't let me go!

This picture is of my using my unrestored M1A1 Kenworth wrecker to move the 969 chassis up to the workshop to begin disassembly. The 'A' frame is a 1960's/1970's Australian military item, but that's all I've got.

All I can do is submit this and then try it out. If that works, then I feel I'm back in business.

Till then. Sam.

[kw573]

Ok, if your eyes are much better than mine!
So, here is the address of that image.

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... hassis.jpg

Thats better. Now for some more pics. BTW, if you can see I've missed something that I should/could do with posting these pictures, please tell me.

I found that the tandem assembly was bolted to the chassis, all 44 of them, not riveted. Not, there is no evidence that it has had the rivets removed and replaced with bolts. There are not the tell-tale oxy gouges, grinder marks, etc. It is not the first one I've seen like this. Could it have been exported 'knocked-down'?
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... emoved.JPG


This is gently lifting the suspension off the axle housings. Although the housing have a flat under surface, the diff housing is very top-heavy (and heavy!), so I was careful not to tip them over. Interestingly, the Kenworth cranes drive off the transfer case similar to the 969. This allows for the selection of a lower gear to give slower, more precise movements of the crane which is very handy at times.
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... tandem.JPG

This shows the main damage to the chassis that I have found. The rear tray mounting brackets had been cut off as well and welded on elsewhere and one of the crane frame brackets is out of alignment, suggesting failed rivets.
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... needed.JPG


So far so good. Thanks again for your help sorting this. Sam.

[Ben Dover]

Has your email problem been corrected?

[gerrykan]

Sam,
I am not the best communicator, but here goes,

On surfacezero.com in your gallery(my photos) left click on the thumbnail of the photo you want.
You should get a page with thumbnails at the top and the chosen photo at the bottom.

Left click on the large chosen photo and a new window should open with the chosen photo.

Right click on the photo in the new window, left click on Properties(at the bottom of the drop-down box that appears). In the new Properties window, left click(hold) and drag to highlight the Address.
Then right click on the highlighted address, left click on Copy. Close the Properties window.

Go to your POST A REPLY box on your G503 thread and left click on the small IMG box along the top of the reply window.
This will place [img]Right-click-here-and-left-click-on-paste-in-the-drop-down-box[/img] in the reply window.
Right click between the two bracketed img's and left click on paste in the drop-down box.

Left click on Preview under the reply window and see if your photo appears.

I am sure you know some of this, or you wouldn't have the thumbnail showing up in that one post, but I thought a step-by step would cover everything.
I just hope I presented it in an understandable way.

Example, here is the address(URL) of one of my images:
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/BundyFlex.jpg

Here is the same address placed between the bracketed img and /img:


Which brings me to a question. You used the term "Bundy Tubing" in reference to brake lines.
Being a Yank, I've never heard brake lines referred to as Bundy Tubing.
Does it have anything to do with the 1944 advertisement I posted above?

[Ben Dover]

Bundy Tubing is available thru the better Automotive suppliers.

[kw573]

Hello,
I feel like I'm getting on top of this bit by bit.

Thanks Gerrykan, that worked. I'm back in business. I think that you did an excellent job of explaining how to post the linked pictures. Well done!

Now all I have to do is get over this cold and get back into the workshop!

Here is some work I did two weeks ago. As I needed various windscreen frame parts, I made them. (They are available, but I have more time than money.) In this case, the knurled nuts for the adjustable arms. I'm not completely sure what they used originally, but most vehicles seemed to use an aluminium straight-knurled nut with a 5/16"NC thread. I know the GMC 6x6 used a pressed steel five cornered knob, so there are others used. Also, the hard-cab 969 used a wingnut type fitting, more like the ones used on the outer windscreen frame pivot of an MB jeep. I purchased a length of rod and machined the nuts in a gang of 4, only because I'll probably need more down the track. Yes, I used a diamond knurl instead of a straight knurl, but I don't have access to a straight knurler.



The finished item. I made one for my GPW 20 years ago and they definitely look better with a little bit of wear on them. I've just noticed that this nut missed getting the edge of the knurl chamfered. This takes off any sharp corners.



I won't tell anyone the knurl is wrong if you don't!


Ben Dover, I haven't had another go at the e-mail problem recently, but I do want to sort it out. I certainly intend to follow through with the wiring harnesses, even if I have to go through a third party.


Bundy tube is the common name used in some cirles of the mechanical trade down-under. I use it as the other term "brake line" sound like "brake lining" and causes confusion at times. Also, the ad says "always better than copper". Copper is illegal to use for automotive brake work down-under. It was explained to me that it reacts with the brake fluid and corrodes from the inside out. At least with the steel stuff, if it rusts, you can see it!
Have a nice day. Sam.

[gerrykan]

Great Sam,
My instructions were selfishly motivated...I want to watch your progress.
I am also starting to believe you could build this truck from scratch!

[Jeff Gordon]

Hi Sam,
As for my wheel bearings, well eh, I have never touched them.
They feel ok and I am not planning on driving it too far yet so I left them for now.

I thought the reason you can't use copper is that it goes hard and cracks. Looses its malleability.
Copper brake lines are used on boat trailers going in salt water.
Cheers
Jeff

[Ben Dover]

Copper is used on Air Brake Lines and has been for years, it is a special grade. Westinghouse Air Brake is one supplier. It is expensive. Special fittings are required. DOT has no sense of humor for those using non spec Copper Air line and Fittings. I order the fittings thru my local Weatherhead and Westinghouse Air Brake dealer.

[kw573]

Hello all,
The chassis rear corners had been gas-axed off and needed to be repaired.


I cut a set of replacement plates from an old chassis section I have and cut them to size, rust-converted them and drilled the holes for the bolts that will replace the original rivets, now missing. Then marked out, cut square and vee'ed out the chassis ready to have the plates welded in.


The lower plate was bolted into place, lined up with everything and welded it up. To get it to lay flat required some hammer-work on the remaining rear cross-member top as it had lifted a bit.


The top plate was then clamped, bolted and tacked into place before finishing the job.


A picture of the finished job I'll post when it's done.

I'm focusing on the rear part of the chassis at the moment, cleaning inside and out with needle gun, cup brush (which is a savage bit of gear!), flapper disc or grinder stone depending on access, material and thickness to be removed. That's it, I just have to get in and do the hard-yards and at the moment, I'm in the mood. Some may wonder why I don't get it sand-blasted. Easy, money. What took me three days would cost, I expect, AU$1000. I would quickly run out of the folding stuff. Yes, it would do a better job, however, when all is done, I know it will suit me and few will be able to tell the difference.





Anyway,that's it so far. Have a nice day. Sam

[kw573]

Hi all,
Firstly, here is that chassis repair completed. Unfortunately I don't have the skill or equipment to fit such large rivets. The bolt is 1/2" UNC and will have to do.


This shows the cup brush in use. It's savage, bites, throws wires, has access problems, but does a good job for the largest part. It is a good follow-up to the needle gun. ALWAYS USE EYE PROTECTION!!!


The needle-gun is an attachment to my air chisel/hammer. This shows the needle gun in use. Good for rough removal of paint and heavy rust. Like a sand-blaster, if you stay with it you can get a good clean finish. Not suitable for light guage steel. It has surprisingly good access into tight corners sometimes.


Here is a random picture of rear-end parts drying in the sun. The large brackets at the far end of the table are the supports between the chassis and rear suspension. These are the ones that I previously asked about their being bolted to some chassis's but riveted to others. In the process of cleaning, I found the slightest hint of chisel marks inside the chassis, indicating that the rivets had probably been removed at some stage. A very tidy job was done of this.
Also, the pintle hook spring, bush and rear mounting plate are there. The relay valve for the rear brakes is there, I just cleaned it and made a replacement diaphram. It'll get fitted then tested when the truck is mobile. A shut-off cock and brake actuator were both disassembled, cleaned and assembled/painted. The rubber seemed OK.
In the front is one of the spring seats. It can be seen that the bushes have been incorrectly fitted. It seems that each bush should be fitted flush with the outside edges, leaving a gap between them as a lube gallery where the grease nipple is fitted. Both housings had the grease nipple opening covered by a bush! Therefore, all the bushes are worn out and I need to find some of them. Any offers?
In the background can be seen the chassis with a air cock and glad-hand fitted. These are used to operate the brakes on a towed vehicle.



Have a nice day. Sam.

[gerrykan]

Any updates Sam?
We haven't heard from you in a while.

[kw573]

Hello all,
yes, I'm still about, and the re-build is still on the go, albiet slower in this winter weather, down to 8 deg C at night. I take a bit of getting out of bed these days (I know, that's a hot summer day for some of you!).
Anyway, I recently ordered the bearings for two rear diffs and rear wheels. AU$2800.00 That's a lot for me to spend in one go. As work has been mechanical, there is not a lot to report.
The trunion tube that ties the rear suspension chassis supports together also carries the spring saddles which run on bushes. The bushing surface on one end was badly corroded, and after MUCH considering and advice, I welded it up with a MIG and lathed it back to original. The corrosion appears to be caused by water, probably as the truck sat for many years without a rear body to keep that part of the mechanicals out of the weather. The same seems to hold for the wheel bearings which don't have a seal, but rather, a felt 'grease retainer'. I'm looking to fit seals instead.

Wow! What a job the trunion was. The tube is about 3 3/8" diameter, and I was unable to find a friendly lathe that this would fit in the spindle. But ol' mate recently purchased an old Nuttall that would do the job using a fixed steady. First, a day cleaning the lathe and working out how to use it. Then it took two goes to work out how to hold the trunion. Eventually, by the thread of the welded end, packed with copper sheet so as not to damage the thread in the chuck, and the fixed steady at the other end. For various reasons, it took about an hour just to get the trunion accurately on the centre of the lathe for its' full length.

Then I stuffed up by going under-size! Just not paying enough attention. So, I re-welded it, this time still mounted in the lathe. And machined it yet again. Success. It's about 0.003" undersize. I'm no machinist, so that will have to do.
I'm now considering what to do about bushes. Does anyone have NOS spring seat bushes for a 969?
The material to make them is around $300US. Hmmm, . . on the hunt again.
The small casting that can be seen on the end of the trunion is a filler plug for an oil reseviour to lube the spring saddle bushes. It must have been welded on after all the lathe-work of manufacture was done, so I couldn't use a dead-centre to measure or mount the trunion. There are holes in the trunion for the oil to run on the bushes. This is the next problem, ensuring that the seals at the bushes will hold oil.
Thanks for the wake-up gerrykan.
more to come. Sam.

[Sgt. Hancock]

Sam, My hat is off to you sir, you have done work that the original assembly line workers would be proud of ! ! ! If you haven't re-powered you truck pleeeaaase don't desecrate that WW2 truck with a Japanese engine. There are plenty of other modern options that are of American production.
Caterpillar for instance is just one of them.
Look on line at Brown Lipe transmissions. A.K.A. brownie box. Particularly Spicer 5831. It is an "under drive - direct - over drive" transmission. It is installed between the transmission and transfer case. If you care to look at www.6066gmcguy.org/spicer-5831-b.htm you will find what I'm referring to. I am going to use one in my G.M.C. A F K X 352 Light Ordnance Maintenance Truck 1941. This trans. is at little bit bigger than an S.M. 420 4 speed found in the mid 60's one ton G.M. and Chevrolet trucks.
Again, BEAUTIFUL WORK my friend ! Respectfully, Sgt. Hancock.

[40 Chevy]

Sam,
A field modification was to change the trunion fittings to a ZERK fitting and use chassis grease instead of oil. I would use felts instead of new grease seals. The felts were just to keep dirt out of the hub. You will be surprised how much axle grease you will use packing all 4 rear hubs. Your price on bearings was not to bad, well I can say that, since I did not have to buy them. Just as a point of reference, the axle bearings are $125.00 USD a piece. So that would have been $1000.00 just to replace all the rear axle beaings.

Keep up the good work. Temps are just the opposite of yours. It has been to HOT to work on my truck, mid to upper 90's with lots of humidity.

John Gott