A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

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kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Feb 13, 2017 11:58 am

I've also managed to spend some time on the fuel tank. It is at a mates' place who is an old school radiator repair man.
He is in Bundaberg and I highly recommend Dave to do quality and honest work on vintage, classic and industrial radiators, the stuff others don't want to do.

Anyway, he resoldered the seams and soldered the weld/braze repairs I'd done . . . .

Image


fitted a replacement pickup tube, copper, to the sender unit . . .

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. . . tank tested it under pressure . . .

Image


. . . and all done, ready to take home, paint, rinse out and fit. Hmmm, easier said than done. Another day.

Image

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


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40 Chevy
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 40 Chevy » Mon Feb 13, 2017 4:50 pm

Sam;
I pondered the same issues you are dealing with when we put the cab back on. We left the cross member in place however, I had 3 helpers and a forklift for the job, I thought about doing what you did with welding the nuts to the frame, however, when I removed the cab, both rear bolts were rusted in half so removal was easy. Keep it mind for the next job!

John G
1940 G4112
1942 G509 969A
1942 G116 series 2
1944 G116 series 5
1942 Sterling HC 165 tractor
1944 Autocar U7144T

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Feb 18, 2017 3:15 am

Hi all,
Today I refitted the air tank after welding the cabin cross member nut in place.
It is a real tight fit with the transfer case in place, but do-able.
Refitting the 4 air pipes is also a bit challenging, getting the threads properly aligned. Don't want to damage them.
Strangely, the largest and most inaccessible pipe is the easiest one to get started!

Image


While I had the tank out, I wanted to extend the drain valve to just below the chassis for ease of access, simply added a nipple (male-male) and a joiner (female-female) fitting. Looks good, accessible, but not hanging too low. That is an original Bendix-Westinghouse drain cock.

Image


Now, back to the fuel tank . . . .

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Feb 18, 2017 10:33 am

. . . . the next for the fuel tank was painting, then a good triple wash with diesel, as I had mechanically cleaned then oiled the inside of the tank when the bottom was cut out of it. I expect to go through a few fuel filters early in the new life of the Glorifier.
Then drove the Glorifier out of the workshop to have the space to test fit the fuel tank.

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And the shield, as the TM calls it.

Image


Easier said than done as it slides under the cabin mount . . . .

Image


. . . . and is a tight fit between the filler hole and rear end plate. Also, as both the shield and scuff plate are new around the filler hole, it wouldn't fit. So it took several fit-remove-grind-refit cycles to get it to go together properly.

Image


Which, of course, then needed repainting.

Image


Enjoy.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Feb 18, 2017 10:59 am

The fuel tank spent a couple of years at the radiator repair shop, being done a very little at a time. This was not a big problem to me as I wasn't ready for it and the price was right.
The base of the tank was quite uneven due, I suppose, in part to being cut and welded. Anyway, this meant that only parts of the tank would contact its' supports. Dave straightened it as well as he could, then stiffened it up by soldering a 4mm wire into the pressing across the base of the tank. He then recommended a 'bed' of netural-cure silocone adhesive/sealant to even out the tank mounting contact area. As I didn't want to glue the tank in place, firstly I wrapped the tank supports with food wrap . . . .

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. . . then laid a bed of silicone on the tank . . .

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. . . . and couldn't resist getting my fingers into it :roll: . . . .

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. . . . then neighbour Andrew helped me carefully put the tank in place. To make sure it was right, I managed to massage some more of the sealant into the gap with my finger. I'm pretty happy with it (the sealant, not my finger).

Image


While I was at it, I also glued the "anti-squeak", as the TM calls it, to the top of the tank, just to hold it in place for final assembly. I used some webbing a mate had bought at a swap meet years ago, it is like thick seat belt strap. Hopefully, this should happen tomorrow.

Image


That will be one more pair of items no longer cluttering the workshop and one step closer to fitting the cabin.

Enjoy.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:12 pm

.
Some time ago, I spent some time on the tacho gauge.
As I can't do the face repaint, I didn't do it at all at this stage. So here is what I started with.

Image


It was seized, which turned out to be the input shaft stuck in its' housing. That is the shaft with the large gear on the end.
A simple freeing up exercise. Then the whole thing seems to spin fine.

Image


I figured that as it was originally driven off the distributor, it is a 2:1 tacho, i.e. the input rpm is half the engine rpm. As the Cummins tacho drive runs off the injector pump drive, it will also be a 2:1 drive. So this original tacho should suit perfectly.
Then it would hardly read when I drove it with a drill. Quite some check/test/pry/test/adjust/test/etc. and I got a reasonable response from the needle when driving it with the drill. So, referring to the picture above and below, here is what happened.
As the input spins, it spins the shaft at the right of the picture below, which throws out the weights seen at the top of the gauge in the picture above. This pulls upward the disk at the green arrow shown below, which lifts the 'foot' at the red arrow and so rotates the large silver/grey bracket on its' shaft which is behind the black arrow. Through another mechanism, this rotates the needle.
There was a large gap between the green arrow disk and the foot, hence a lot of disk lifting before any foot movement. After some testing, I found I could slide the disk up its' shaft using a squeezing action with a pair of suitable pliers until the foot was just in contact with the disk. Then it seemed to work fine.

Image


I also worked out that the blue arrow adjustment effectively lengthens or shortens the bracket the foot is on, hence increasing or decreasing the amount of response the needle gives. And the yellow arrow adjusts the zero or at-rest setting.
Then off to the instrument man to test it. He said it was pretty good, reading about 50rpm low at low(1000rpm) and mid(1500rpm) range and spot on at high(2000rpm) range. If I had persevered with the blue arrow adjustment, I may have got it better, but I had run out of patience at the time.
Anyway, reassembled, lubed with a couple of drops of light machine oil (I used sewing machine oil, the TM says watch/clock oil), fitted to dash, connected with a temporary cable, and test run. It is a bit wobbly at low range revs, but steady at mid and high range revs. I put the wobbles down to the less-than-perfect drive cable.

Image


Thanks to John, I have the max. rpm red needle lock key and can use it as intended. That is very satisfying to use, run the revs up, reset the red needle. Run the revs up, reset the needle, run th . . . Man! I'm easily pleased sometimes :) :)

Yes, I do need to get the face repainted sometime. That is very expensive here, but have heard good reports of places in UK to get it done.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Feb 28, 2017 11:24 am

Back to the fuel tank . . .

. . after waiting for a week for the silicon base to dry properly, it was time to bolt the tank and shield into place to stay.
So I removed the food wrap and trimmed a bit of excess silicon off . . .

Image


. . then got ready to fit the shield and slide it into place.

Image


One issue I had was the nuts for the bolts that hold the scuff plate to the shield rubbing against the tank. There was a small dint in two places on the tank that showed that this had happened before. So I glued some rubber sheet protectors around the nuts to be safe.

Image


The next thing to contend with was that the shield goes between the cowl mounting rubber and its' chassis bracket. So that had to be loosened and lifted, held with a wedge (I have a few wooden wedges, and they get used) while it was all slid into place. Easy said, but the silicon doesn't like to slide much. . . more like lift and wriggle, lift and wriggle :?

Image


I found the bolts/nuts/washers/springs/split pins to bolt it down. The front two bolts are ordinary 5/8" x 3 1/2" UNF, but the rear two are 4" long and have a split pin hole. The rear bolts don't have lock washers, but use the split pins on castellated nuts because of the spring. The springs are, I believe, to allow some chassis twist without damaging the tank when off-roading.

Image



Getting those nuts to start against the pressure of the springs was a bit of a challenge. I ended up putting a couple of washers in a socket so that the nut would sit proud of it, then added a short extension to use as a handle, and I was then able to apply enough pressure to compress the spring (a engine valve spring I found in my 'springs' box) and at the same time control its' alignment and turn it to get the thread started.

Image


That was enough for me. Next weekend, I'll bolt down the cowl mount then look at connecting the plumbing and electricals to it.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

fowler8669
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by fowler8669 » Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:26 pm

superb work Sam

the work on the tacho is very interesting as i have a nice complete gauge but some thing is up with it as you shake it and it sounds like it is full of nails :?

will have ago and fixing it as your simple explanation will make the task a lot easier.

i have a hercules rxc set up on a skid which i like to play with and would be nice to know what revs it is really doing.

regards Sam (uk)

Stephen Davis
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Stephen Davis » Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:35 pm

8) Nice job, enjoying following your thread, pun intended.
Looking forward to seeing the finished photos. :mrgreen:
UNIMOG DOWN UNDER
1953 one ton GS trailer
1961 Mighty Mite M422A1
1986 Unimog 1300L
1971 Serries Skippy Land Rover, Son's drive.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sun Mar 12, 2017 12:40 pm

Thanks Sam and Stephen,
Stephen, the rattling sound in your tacho could just be the centrifugal weights flopping around.

I've been working on the drivers side front mud guard (fender), getting it ready for a coat of color. My skills in the area of panel repairs are fairly poor, but I am getting better at it.

I came to another "will I? won't I?"
I usually "will". This reinforcement section was quite rusty, but would still work fine I thought. But it is still rusty. Ummm. . . .

Image


Of course I fixed it. Started with removing the old one, that was spot welded in place. That was done by cutting the plate into sections with a wafer (1mm thick) grinder disc to isolate each spot weld from the others. That then allows them to be easily removed by twisting them off. A spot weld is very weak in this way, which is why you almost never see a single spot weld used. Then cut a cardboard template . . .

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. . . from which I cut and folded a replacement section out of 1.6mm (16g) steel. The fold on the curved surface was not too hard, I used an old truck rim as a curved mandrel.

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Test clamped it in place, . . .

Image


. . . . drilled weld holes, traced them onto the painted guard and ground the paint off for ease of welding.


Image


All good. Clamped it in place again and welded the "spot" welds.

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Ground the welds smooth and painted it. I'm glad I did do this repair.

Image


Now, back to the filler and wet'n'dry.

Enjoy.
Sam.
Last edited by kw573 on Thu Mar 16, 2017 6:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Mar 14, 2017 11:48 am

. . . . more work on the drivers side front mudguard.
I use Phosphoric acid, Etch primer(black) or red oxide(red) or primer/surfacer(grey) depending on the substrate or stage I'm working on. This guard was sand blasted, but years ago, so much light rust had returned.

Image

Image


The six holes for the 'step' can be seen on the top of the guard in the picture below. It is simply a light checkerplate um . . . plate . . . , to stand on for access to the under bonnet (hood) area.

Image


This 'step' also has reinforcing angle brackets that are slightly curved to suit the top of the guard, and were originally spot welded to it. The step is the reason for the large rust repair on the top of the guard. Anyway, I removed the remains of the rust-cut from the angle strips by bending to find the next spot weld . . .

Image


Image


. . . then cutting the plate just past the spot weld to isolate it from the next spot weld and simply twisted it to make the weld let go. Easy.

Image


Next is to grind the weld remains and heavy rust off, weld the deep rust pits and rust convert with phosphoric acid ready for paint. This time, I'll bolt the angles onto the guard using the six 1/4" round-head bolts that hold the step in place.

Getting close to some top coat. Exciting stuff.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
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Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Mar 16, 2017 12:11 pm

Last week, I had another go at converting the air pressure relief valve to an 'O' ring valve instead of the original steel ball valve that leaked slightly.
After making the replacement 'carrier' and alignment rod . . . .

Image


. . . . they were soldered together . . . .

Image


. . . and here it is ready to assembly. It is now fitted and will be checked and adjusted when I fire up the Cummins next. I'll set it to around 110 - 120 p.s.i.

Image


The drivers front guard has been finished and painted. No pics yet. So, the passenger guard is next. Oh. . . it is in much worse condition!
I guess that, being less visible to the driver, it has had a few good hits, then only marginal repairs done. This has left the guard (fender) with damage not immediately apparent. I'll definitely be fitting markers on the ends of the front bumper!!! :roll:
Anyway, on a stinking hot day, I moved it out to the shade of a tree to work on it.

Image


After a lot of welding, cutting, shrinking and grinding, the guard was still very out of shape. It had developed a badly behaved twist that I could not fix. So, suspecting the large patch on the top, I cut the weld and it violently 'sprung' as it let go.

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So I cut the next edge which 'sprang' even more dramatically, then the third weld which sprang more, and so decided to remove half of the patch completely. I was amazed at how much stress was in the panel. No wonder I was having so much trouble. Then I had another go at getting it all straight. Much more success this time. I am procrastinating about welding a new plate in as I'll have to be very careful to avoid setting up a whole new set of stresses in the guard.

Image


It hasn't been all grief though. A smaller patch I did near the front of the guard worked very well.

Image

Back to the welder and grinder today!

Have a nice day.
Sam.
Last edited by kw573 on Thu Mar 16, 2017 6:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Mar 16, 2017 6:10 pm

First top double coat done on the drivers side guard.
Nothing like a coat of semi-gloss to show all the bits you missed.
Pretty good for an amateur, I reckon! :wink:

Image


A satisfied . . .

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Mar 16, 2017 6:24 pm

Another small job is the repair of the bonnet stay rod/arm, which had one end broken off.
Each bonnet (hood) has its' own stay rod to hold it open when needed. They seem to be typical Diamond T of that era and into the 1950s'.
Anyway, I shaped a replacement end from some plate . . . . .

Image

Image


. . . . checked for accuracy . . .

Image

Image


. . . and then I'll MIG weld it in place and shape it to fit the existing contours of the rod/arm. I deliberately made it longer so as to have the option to cut it, or the arm, and to cut at an angle for strength.

Enjoy.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sun Mar 19, 2017 12:03 pm

Hello all,

I went back to the pesky passenger side front mudguard, but not the top repair. I had a go at another one, this time the box section that fits around the radiator and has the section that bolts to the top of the chassis beside the radiator. The panel beater had removed it completely for some reason and I wanted to stiffen up the guard a bit before I had another go at the top patch again. So I repaired and refitted it.
First some rust repairs.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


And some straightening. Test clamp into place, which was a bit involved . . . .

Image

Image


. . . . . before some measuring to be sure the whole shape of the guard was close to correct. Then welded into place. It seemed to work fine and did stiffen up the front section to the guard. Just took a couple of hours.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


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