A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Military Trucks 2 1/2 ton and greater, Wanted, For Sale (NO AUCTION or EBAY), and Knowledge Base

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fowler8669
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by fowler8669 » Sun Jan 15, 2017 10:43 am

i think it is a good idea listing page numbers with content as it makes it easier to find every thing.

it is getting the information to the attention of diamond t owners who are working on their trucks.

like a said to Sam i used the pages related to his front axle rebuild to help me re build my front axle before christmas and it was a great help.

know i have started my diamond t 980 project my 969 will have to wait it's turn but when i start it Sam's thread will be a hugely helpful tool especially were the tin work is concerned.

there are more 4 ton diamond t restorations taking place in the UK know with a wrecker project being purchased recently for restoration, and i am informing owners in the uk of Sam's thread and i have had some really positive feed back.

so thumbs up from me.

regards Sam (uk)


kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Jan 30, 2017 12:08 pm

Thanks for that Sam(UK). I'll just plod along with it knowing there will be some use for it.

Work on the Glorifier has been sporadic. I have several weeks full time work which slows me down, and yes, TTM, the humidity is not helping.

The front of the chassis was rusting through the paint and the radiator/winch area needed a recoat, so I got into that on the weekend.

Image

Went to the blasters, which I don't do much, and had some wheel rims and the front bumper done.
Picture shows it ready to blast.

Image


I undercoated them on site. Did the tow hooks as well.

Image


Top coated and sitting in position. Not a good picture, but you can sort of see the difference in the color of the bumper to the winch/radiator, despite always buying the paint by the numbers! So the radiator/chassis front/winch all had another coat of color applied.

Image


Once the bolts are finished painting, I think I can bolt the bumper on to stay.
One more job done.

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Jan 30, 2017 12:16 pm

Can anyone help me with some of these, please?

Image

They are the front mudguard (fender) bolts for the Diamond T trucks. I need about 20 of them.
I can't quite bring myself to using cup head bolts, just yet!

Thanks.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

rjbeamer
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by rjbeamer » Mon Jan 30, 2017 3:59 pm

Good day Sam. What is the diameter of the shank and are they carriage bolts. Not sure of what you mean by cup head bolts.

Roger

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40 Chevy
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 40 Chevy » Mon Jan 30, 2017 6:08 pm

Sam;

Check your email.

John G
1940 G4112
1942 G509 969A
1942 G116 series 2
1944 G116 series 5
1942 Sterling HC 165 tractor
1944 Autocar U7144T

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Jan 31, 2017 11:38 am

Modern cup head bolt = domed head similar to the picture above but smaller diameter and taller(thicker) + a small section of square shank under the head (where the 'spline' can be seen above), designed to be hammered into the timber to prevent the bolt turning whilst the nut is being fitted.

Image

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

rjbeamer
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by rjbeamer » Tue Jan 31, 2017 12:22 pm

Sam here in the states they are referred to as "Rib necked carriage bolts" and they are available in varies sizes.

Zoro shows 3/8' X 1" # G5920896 $33.49 per box of 100. Shipping would likely hurt for where you are at though.

Roger

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Jan 31, 2017 11:06 pm

Rodger,
Thanks for the lead on that.
McMaster Carr have the 98060A320 Carriage bolt that is even closer to the original.
I can send them to John who should be able to include them in the next package, hopefully at no extra cost.
Do you think so John?

This is the McMaster Carr bolt.

Image

From memory, the original is 5/16 UNF x 1" or 1 1/4" long.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

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40 Chevy
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 40 Chevy » Wed Feb 01, 2017 2:28 am

No problem Sam.

John G
1940 G4112
1942 G509 969A
1942 G116 series 2
1944 G116 series 5
1942 Sterling HC 165 tractor
1944 Autocar U7144T

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:58 am

Hi all,

Some progress has been made. A few weeks ago, I had the front bumper blasted and last week I top coated it ready to fit it.
But I realized that I may have fitted the front winch brake band incorrectly. So after looking at a couple of TM pictures, I saw that, indeed it was the wrong way around. With the spring on the left side, the brake would work harder on the wind-in of cable and tend to release as much as the spring would allow on the wind-out of cable. This is the opposite of the purpose of the brake, which is to prevent the winch free wind-out under load, that is, the worm wheel driving the worm shaft backwards. A worm drive is not supposed to do that. The brake needs to apply on the wind-out.
I had to fix that now as the brake cover won't come off with the bumper bar in place.

Image


Removed, reversed, refitted. Easier said than done as I had an oversize band lining fitted. Won't do that again!

Image


Only then could I fit the almost straight bumper. I have managed to use all-but-one original bolt, so that is good.

Image


There are two holes drilled in the top of the drivers side gusset plate which I presume are for an Australian Army fitted vice, am I correct?
Also, at the outside ends of the top gusset on each side is a single hole, about 3/8" dia, just visible in the picture above. Is it for a guide marker post, maybe to hold a marker flag? Is it original or Australian? Comments welcome.


One more job done.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:24 am

Also, a bit more work on the cabin, which is inching, ever so slowly, toward being fitted to the chassis.

As I have a rodent presence at my place, I had to re-paint the cabin interior due, partly, to rats living in it a while ago. Rat piss is corrosive :x .
One place of entry is under the cabin where an opening allows access to the under-seat areas in the cabin. So I welded a steel plate across this opening. The picture below shows the opening, with the cabin upside down.

Image


Refitting the passenger side seat mounts/tool box inside the cabin.

Image


The screws I was using to hold these parts in place, as well as the toe board and steering column escutcheon in place were the right size (14gx5/8") but had flanged hex heads, far from original. Locally, I managed to buy some screws with Philips drive heads, much closer to the original slot drive pan heads. I can buy a slot drive screw locally, but they are poor quality. McM-C have them, I just gotta get organized!

Image


More progress made.

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

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40 Chevy
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 40 Chevy » Wed Feb 08, 2017 4:40 pm

Sam;
The 3/8 inch ho;e at the edge of the bumper is a holder for the red colored warning flags.

John G
1940 G4112
1942 G509 969A
1942 G116 series 2
1944 G116 series 5
1942 Sterling HC 165 tractor
1944 Autocar U7144T

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:31 pm

John,
Is there an 'original' issue holder?
Or units used what they had?
Does anyone have a period picture of these holders?
Thanks.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

User avatar
40 Chevy
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by 40 Chevy » Fri Feb 10, 2017 5:18 am

My holders are pieces of pipe welded to the bumper, orginal, I do not know.

John G
1940 G4112
1942 G509 969A
1942 G116 series 2
1944 G116 series 5
1942 Sterling HC 165 tractor
1944 Autocar U7144T

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Feb 13, 2017 11:35 am

Hi all,

Another job I ummed-and-ahhhed about is the way the cabin rear mount is designed.
There is a cross member under the rear edge of the cab that slips firmly over the outside edges of the top of the chassis rails and is held with only one bolt and nut on each side. The middle of this cross member has the mount for the back of the cab. However, it also has a sizable lip turned up that goes hard against the back of the cabin. This creates a jam when fitting the cabin to the cowl, it has to be jammed between the cowl and the lip on the back of the cross member. And align the two long cabin mounting bolts at the same time. And avoid knocking any paint off.
Quite a challenge.

An option is to bolt the cross member to the cabin first - no more jamming problems.
BUT, the nuts for the cross member bolts are hard to get at on one side and pretty much impossible on the other. It is impossible as the drivers side air tank is mounted on top of it. OK, so weld the nuts to the inside of the chassis. Yeah, if I want to got to all the trouble of stripping the air tank back out of the chassis. Will I? Won't I?

OK. I'll do it.

The tank didn't take much time to remove, just awkward. The arrow below shows the drivers side cross member bolt hole.

Image


And the passenger side bolt hole.

Image


To hold the nuts in place while welding, I used a bolt. D'oh!!!!

Image

Image

Image


Then cleaned and painted them. The split conduit is paint masking. Yes, the welding is pretty ordinary - shows the limit of my equipment and my ability when crouched inside a chassis, welding almost by feel! (That's my excuse :roll: )

Image


It wasn't as arduous as I expected, but I haven't put the air tank back in yet!

One more job almost finished.
Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


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