A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

[kw573]

Thanks for the heads-up Jeff,
as John said, it is high up on the case, so won't have huge amounts of oil to contend with.

Although I know that this is a good case, I probably do need to check to seals prior to fitting it to the chassis. And I intend to adopt your proven oil sealing methods. They sound just right.

Now that you mention it, the transfer case with the hollow bar mount was probably from a 972 tipper. There is only one part number that I can find in the book: DT-N20198 CROSSMEMBER, transfer case, front
The vast majority from these trucks came to Australia as wreckers for our army, around 500, I believe, and as an import by the well known Australian earthmoving contractor Theiss Brothers who I'm told brought in around 500 972 tippers.

I'm just very thankful to those on the 'g' who helped me get a good transfercase and gearbox. Appreciated.

Hmmm . . . . "to line up castrated nut." . . . Do I have to use castrated nuts?!?

I sure hope you mean "castleated nuts"

Still looking for a set of used but just useable bearings for one of these transfercases to use in a yard truck.
Have a nice day.
Sam.

[kw573]

...... got a bit of energy this morning and put the Transfer case PTO together

.... first the selector rod, detent ball, spring and cap.






Then, to fit the selector fork, the sliding dog has to go on first, then the pair fitted into the housing in one unit,




. . . and tighten the lock screw.






There, all in place.






More to come . . .

[kw573]

. . . . after that I could refit the shaft and outer bearing cup,






Then clean the shims and apply a light smear of RTV sealant to each and assemble the bearing cap. I had adjusted the bearing pre-load previously.






. . and put it all together . . . (ignore the incorrect bolts, they are temporary )






. . . then bolted it up to the transfer case. It has a couple of studs and nuts that make that job a bit more intricate. A bit like the ones on the rear diffs.






. . . and the shift linkage, sprocket and nut.






Next is to paint it ready for fitting. I am not going to do the output seals at this stage, later if needed.
That will do for now.
Have a nice day.
Sam.

[kw573]

Good morning all,

It has been 2 months since I have posted. Purely due to work commitments, both time and energy.
Now I have a weeks' reprieve and can make some progress.

The transfer case is painted and finished and I have begun re-painting the center section of the chassis prior to fitting it. All going well, that should be done today.

Purists, please leave now.

A while back, I started modifying the flywheel of the donor engine to take the original clutch assembly. With the insightful comments of Jeff during a visit, I could see how it could be done. It also helps that I have access to a good sized lathe.

The original flywheel is a stepped, or pot, or recessed type (depends who you are talking to). . . .




but the Cummins is a direct drive type, with lots of bolt holes to take various drive shafts, so the holes that are where the clutch would run needed to be filled. I did this by screwing bolts into them. You can also see the spacer ring that will be attached later . . . .






and welding from the back . . .




and grinding them off flush.




More to come.
Sam.

[kw573]

Hi all,

After re-painting the middle section of the chassis,




it was time to fit the transfercase. . .




So out with the Kenworth. . .




and wrestle it into place.




Opps!! Once bolted into place, I couldn't get the chain out. The head ring on the end was too big.




I had to disassemble the hammerlock to get it out!

The next job is this lot.




I notice that the front tail shaft unis are the same as the rear inter-axle tail shaft unis. But the transfercase-to-rear-diff unis and gearbox-to-transfercase unis are a good deal bigger. I can hunt around for them locally, but thought I'd ask here first if anyone has some new ones to sell or has a modern part number for them.

Still on the lookout for a set of sort-of-useable bearings for a paddock truck transfercase I want to put together.

Have a nice day.
Sam.

[40 Chevy]

Jeff;

I put modern SPICER u joints in my truck, I don't recall the numbers but Jeff J can cross them. I seem to remember around $50.00 a joint.

John G

[kw573]

Just a quick one
(Shane, this is the one I told you about.)

Here is the front winch PTO linkage about to be cleaned and painted.




BTW, I got modern universal joints for AU$40 each, a very common uni even nowadays.

Sam.

[kw573]

Back to the flywheel,

Next was to fit a spacer as the Cummins flywheel does not have the depth to take the Diamond T pressure plate. The spacer was laser cut from 3/8" plate, and the flywheel was drilled and tapped to fit countersunk head UNF bolts.






Then the careful work started. About 4 hours on the lathe turning out the step to the same size as on the original flywheel.




It is a heavy sucker!




On another front, yesterday was an attempt to fit tailshafts. The front one went straight on, but the rear one would not compress enough to fit. So after about 20 minutes wrestling with it under the truck, it came back out. It is another heavy part. I have disassembled the spline, de-greased it and used spray WD40, but it still won't compress the last 1 1/2". It is resisting cleaning from the open end.
I fear it is corrosion in the female spline and I may have to take the new uni off and grind off the end cap to get access to that end of the spline. Any ideas?

Anyway, a happy Easter to you all, not forgetting the reason for the season.
Sam.

[kw573]

Here is a whole bunch of parts that are the hand brake and a bit of PTO linkage. Lots of bits for only two items on the truck!




And two tailshafts mentioned earlier. The shorter one is the one giving difficulties now.




Sam.

[motto]

Maybe you could try grinding the corner of a flat file to the correct profile and use that to clean out the internal spline Sam or you may even have a file that will fit in the spline as is. It shouldn't take that much to clean it up.

Dave

[D.R.H.]

Is the Zerk, (grease nipple), tight. If so, loosen it and let the trapped air out that could be causing the issue. I see that the longer shaft has the Zerk in place. Can not see it on the shorter shaft.

[kw573]

Thanks Gents.

Dave,
I'll give that a try, though I did have a fairly good scratch around with the end of a VW beetle front spring leaf sharpened on the end.

Sgt. H,
Yes, I did suspect a hydraulic lockup at first. The problem persists after removing most of the grease and the relief hole in the end is clear.

Sam

[kw573]

Hi all,

Once again it has been a long while since I have posted, again, work is demanding these days.

I drilled . . . .




and tapped the holes to bolt the clutch cover (pressure plate) to the flywheel.




Then disassembled the clutch cover to have the pressure plate machined.




Here you can see the pressure plate removed from the clutch cover. There is often great alarm over disassembling units with such big springs in them. And, yes, they do need to be respected, however, they ain't that big. As you can see, two sliding F clamps held this one easily.




Here, the circlip has been removed and the pivot balls for the 20 fingers can be seen.




More to come.
Sam.

[kw573]

So . . .
after some cleaning and painting, the pressure plate machined, and an assembly collar made, it was time to put the clutch cover back together. Fortunately, I have some new parts (thanks John) to fit where needed. Here, the spring has been compressed, it is underneath and can hardly be seen here, ready for the fingers to be fitted.




20 fingers in place.




Then their pivot balls . . .




. . . . and the top retaining ring. Also ready to be used is the assembly collar I made.




The assembly collar is a copy of one shown in a workshop manual. It makes sense as the circlip takes to total pressure from the main spring and to try to fit it with the medium-sized circlip pliers I have, or to screw or wind it on was asking for a failure somewhere down the road. So, I bit the bullet and made a collar to slide the circlip over. Then it would go on without excess force or distortion.

For comparision, here is the new circlip with the old one on top to show the distortion that it has suffered.




Anyway, that is all for now.
Have a nice day.
Sam.

[Stephen Davis]

Hi Sam, Nice to see you are still progressing. Thats one big job Mate.
Stephen