How best to remove Rust and junk from engine water ports

[bboomerbootcamp]

I have been slowly rehabing my 42" tipper.
Body, paint, general mechanics, on the long awaited ride home it over heated. It was running very well considering it had not in a few years, ten minutes into it's ride home for finish details, 250 + degrees. Water pump was change a couple months back so we pulled the thermostat, it was stuck open. The radiator was not flowing much at all, figured it was full of rust and gunk, it was. Did some flushing and light acid cleaning and it seemed to flow a bit better. The next check the flow from the engine, seemed there is little or no flow between the engine and the radiator, thats my question. How to best clean rust or build up from the engine ports??
All help or suggestions are much appreciated
I promise to post some before and after shots soon as I can get her home for paint, she is a real beauty!!
I am computer slow, so pictures are on the curve.
Thanks,
Mark

[Ben Dover]

Take it to a radiator shop and let them have a go at it.

[bboomerbootcamp]

Was thinking I still may take the radiator to a shop but what about the stuff that seems to be stuck in the water jackets? I'm sure there is a fair share of rust and gunk, it does not seem to be flowing through the head. Maybe I worry to much but don't want to expose a cleaned out radiator to the rusty sludge of a clogged motor.

[Ben Dover]

Radiator shops flush cooling systems including the engine block.

[forestry4evr]

Mark,

Welcome to the "g", and glad to hear that someone else is embarking on a Chevy rebuild. You may want to look at "pintlehooks" tread. He has a great rebuild progression including some information about what you may have in your water jacket. At the very least, it will allow you a virtual look inside your engine.

Paul

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=175579

[artificer]

Radiator shops flush cooling systems including the engine block.

The Mark man is asking a real question & looking for a real answer, I have not heard of radiator shops doing call outs but stranger things have happened.
The radiator can be taken to a radiator shop if he wants or he can overhaul it himself without too much trouble
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=139530&p=818184&hilit=rodding+radiator#p818184
& one would ALWAYS recommend the engine block be cleaned when a cleaned or overhauled radiator is installed.
This usually involves removing "all" core [welsh or freeze] plugs, the waterpump & thermostat then using a device introducing air pressure & water into the hardest to get to spots.
Hope that helps Mark & all radiators whether Jeep, truck or earthmovers are cleaned & handled the same way.

[Sleeve]

That's what I've done with old engine blocks in the past also. Knock out all the freeze plugs and pull the waterpump and thermostat housing and go at it with long flat blade screw drivers and long thin rods while continually flushing the gunk out with a garden hose as it breaks loose. You can get the water jacket pretty clean useing this method. The motor in my 51 International over heated badly even without a thermostat until I did this now it runs at normal temp with the correct T- stat installed even in the hottest weather. Most likely the freeze plugs are about rusted through anyway so it is a good time to get them out and ready for replacements as well. If the block is going to the machine shop for a rebore they will hot tank it and that will get any residual swarf out of the water jacket.

-Mike-

[bboomerbootcamp]

I really really hope the block is not on it's way to a shop. The motor seems to start and run very well, hope my rust issue is all that requires further attention.
Does anyone have a thought on using muratic acid in the block??
I've been told in controlled use it can be effective. Thanks,
Mark

[Ben Dover]

Professional radiator shops are equipped with the tools and special chemicals to professionally clean and flush complete cooling systems without removing expansion plugs. The best time to clean the cooant passages of the block is when the engine block is out and stripped down for rebuild, the machine shop will remove all expansion plugs, and oil galley plugs in preparation for hot tanking. There is also a procedure for cleaning out built up debris within the radiator core by removing the tank and "rodding" the tubes.

[Sleeve]

Just to clarify........I didn't need a rebuild on my 51's motor it ran great other than the overheating problem but i did pull it out of the truck to clean out the water jacket, replaced the leaky rusted out freeze plugs, replaced gaskets and seals and then repainted the motor. It was a good time to see if the clutch needed renewing. Then reinstalled it. A bit of work but worth it, the trucks been trouble free daily driver for two years now and it allowed me to take care of a few other details like painting the engine compartment.

I mention the above as one possibilty for your problem but not the only solution. Enjoy your project these trucks are a whole lot of fun!

-Mike-

[bboomerbootcamp]

Thanks Mike, sounds like a worthy plan, I can only think a day out at a time. I will do the basics first and see if theres a need to go further. A daily driver would be a fun end game!
Mark

[artificer]

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[Sgt. Hancock]

Every engine I build gets shipped off to receive an acid dip where it will be submerged for 3 days in a solution that will strip everything out of the engine. Before and after machine work, it goes into a heated engine cleaner for a bath.
After the engine is assembled before paint, I will wash the engine with a solution of baking soda and water to neutralize any acid that may be lurking in the pores and crannies.

[artificer]

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[a fechner]

If You have a problem with over heating, You may want to get the Cylinder Head check for cracks. I was told that the old cast iron cylinder heads had a problem with cracking from over heating. Thanks Andy