SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

[pintelhook11over]

Hello, here's some more photos of more door work, I finnally broke down and "Sanded" the panel against all fore-mentioned disclaimers not to sand the lead(with a respirator of course) with 80 grit and achived much better surface finnish. There is no way the "Smooth" finnish can be accomplished with out sanding...that is as far as I know with my limited experience.

I started with the outboard side, leaded some low spots, filled in the "open" areas with a liberal layer of lead untill it flowed into the inside, melted some of the outside off... (because it got the metal too dang hot), re-applied the lead, then added in some in the lower edge area and tried to level it out some.

I'll tell ya, it can be pretty challenging at times to keep the metal hot enough to let the lead "bond" to the work piece, but not too hot that it melts the lead away...

[pintelhook11over]

Here's a couple photos of the driver door after a few more sessions with the "lead" and I finally broke down and bought some "Modern" body filler, I was Glazing Putty. I primered the work area to see all the flaws and pinholes, then I sanded it down to bare metal/lead, tinned the area that required tinning, applied the Glazing Putty (red spots), let it dry for aprox. 30 minutes, re-sanded the area, re-primed the surface and then applied paint on top of the work area.

I am temporarily satisfied with the current results...I can always re-address anny issues that bother me, but I am getting kinda impatient and want to move on to other Door and Hood, Fenders and grill.

Right now I'll have to say "Ehh, Good enough for Government work..."

[pintelhook11over]

Hello, Here are some photos of lead work on the passenger side door, lower cab windlace install, vent knob install, Mirror repair parts and door bump stop install. Next, I plan on disassembling the windshield frame and transfering the old windshield items onto the "Civ'vy" replacement, then working more with the doors when more parts arrive.

[bboomerbootcamp]

All I can say is WOW, would bring yourself and family to Sedona Az. and spend a week on my truck, I'll supply the room board and beer

[pintelhook11over]

Ha! Well, If you find an "Original" Wrecker No.7 to install in the back of my G7117 we may have to negotiate!

[pintelhook11over]

Here's some pictures of me installing some cab welting across the engine area and disassembling the Civ'vy windshield and the original windshield. All of the bottom Civ'vy "T" screws failed, the dang lower insert bar broke off inside of one frames.The old windshild wasn't so friendly. The screws failed during disassembly of the slider bars which is bogus because I don't know where to find "Tube nuts" that size, the hinges came out fair with only one failed screw. I had to destroy the Military frame to get the glass out to use as a pattern for new glass, but it was un-saveable due to rust.

[42cargo]

As always, nice shots and good work.

I've actually been chugging along on mine, sandblasting and priming the military front end for reassembly where the civilian currently is. Other than running across some large drill holes in the fenders and some stress fractures in the side pans that I'll need to weld up, I've been fortunate not to have to deal with too much damage. I've kind of been holding off on getting a welder due to budgetary reasons, but I hope to pick one up in September or October. That, coupled with the weather hopefully getting out of the triple digits that we've enjoyed for the last two months, will make things a lot more fun and speedier.

Two quick reference questions for you. Did you get the correct tools to fit into the clutch-head screws? I've seen them online and will probably end up ordering from there, but if one of the chains like NAPA carries them, I'd prefer to see what I'm getting ahead of time.

Also, does your voltage regulator have any date code on it? If you get the chance, could you post a shot of the data plate for it?

Thanks,

John

[pintelhook11over]

Yep on the clutch head screws tools, got a 4 size set off of Ebay for about $25-$30 bucks awhile back (modern plastic handles), then got a few 3/8 drive and 1/4 drive ratchet bits from the Snap-on truck at work ($50-$60 ish). You got to "dress-up" the tip of the drivers after a while due to rounding off the edges, I accomplish this by lightly griding the tip flat (@ 90 deg's)to get a sharp edge and engage the screw head again, plus it helps to use a seal pick and "dig" out any built-up debris out of the clutch head hole. When the screw driver spins in the screw it consumes the tool edges, but I don't know what else to do short of buying a new clutch head driver tool. I looked at local Vendors around to do the same type inspection first but was unsuccessful.

I got my welder at Home Depot for like $450.00-$500.00, but It has served me well, it is perfect for this type of tinkering. It welds up to 3/8 @ 20% duty cycle if I remember correctly, and it can be upgraded with "shielding gas" and also an "aluminum" welding gun at a later date. If I would have got that other additional items when I purchased it the price would have been like $650.00 or there abouts.

As for that regulator info, I'll have to check it out when I get a chance, I couldn't find any of my pictures with enough detail to see the numbers on the data plate. I don't recall a date, but recall a serial number or model number with figures that look like Min/Max nomenclatures in the 6-8 VDC ranges.

[bobc]

Concerning the clutch head screw driver bits, I was able to find one at my local hardware store, made by Vermont American their number is 15090 it's a 5/32 bit and worked very well on the screws I've pulled so far, NAPA also had one in their screw driver bit section but I've lost the card it was on, but if you have a good parts guy he should be able to find one for you, both of these are just bits, but I use them in my Snap-on ratchet screw driver, I only paid about $3 each for them, I'm a bit spoiled when it come to taking apart these vehicles, I don't have nearly the rust problems most of you guys do, my 10 year old daughter came out to help this week and she was able to remove the front cab bolt covers by herself!

[pintelhook11over]

Here is more fun with the windshield...maybe this will work with someone else's save-able windshield. One of the joining bars was broke off inside one half during disassembly. I removed some of the "deteriorated/rusted" frame corner where they always rot out to allow a 1/4 inch rod down into the window frame hole to knock the broke piece out from the inside.

[pintelhook11over]

Here are some photos of Operator Compartment Glass work, Sgt Hancock Helped me with this due to my lack of experience with Glazing work. The glass was previously cut at a local auto glass shop, Sgt Hancock had some weatherstripping called Tuff-Pac that is used between the glas and the metal frame. The process is fairly straight forward:

Cut the glass
sandblast/clean frameworks
acquire weatherstripping
prepare a "Glass friendly"workspace
cut weatherstipping to the length required
use masking tape to hold the material to the glass during assembly
assemble components in reverse order of disassembly

Note: be sure to orientate the lower section of the door glass for a left and right door to allow the door regulators to engage the door windows correctly.

[Sgt. Hancock]

I would just like to add that any glass shop in town will have Tuff-Pak. It is made in varying thicknesses. 1/32", 3/64", 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64" and 1/8". It has a thin cloth weave on one side and natural rubber/cork on the other. The rubber/cork side 'goes to' the glass.
When it comes to installing the door window frame on the glass it is necessary to 'pinch' the channel a little so it will grip the Tuff-Pak and glass. Over the years of opening and closing the doors, heat and cold, the frame will get stretched open a bit. In this case we had to this trick, and we used 3/64" think Tuff-Pak. It was what I had on hand, and the best part it was free. It can also be viewed at C.R.Lawrence Co..com. I thought it was around $150.00 a roll but it is actually only around $50.00 a roll.
I expect Cody will install his prepped frames in his doors and cab soon. His truck is really coming together and looking very nice as well.

[42cargo]

Nice work and thanks for the update. I'll be interested to see how to install the channel in the door that the window slides in, as well as to learn where I can get the correct channel stock.

John

[Sgt. Hancock]

Gents, if you look closely at Codys' glass, you see a greenish tint to it. It is called Solex. The Poly Vinyl safety sheet between the pieces of glass is treated to reflect damaging U.V. rays from the interior.

[bobc]

Just wondering if the tinted glass is the kind of thing a picky judge would hit you on if the truck was ever shown?