SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

[Sgt. Hancock]

Gents of the "G". Take note on which side the the locking insert is located for this installation. I have installed Glass and related products for over 25 years. Some has been Auto Glass. Cody has been trained correctly by Caterpillar to perform a proper installation of Glass and its' "Pinch Moulding". The locking insert must always be installed inside. An exterior installation will cause a rapid deterioration of the rubber due to water intrusion. I am very pleased to see Him put forth a tremendous effort on his truck. So far, the pay-off is looking really nice.
Keep up the good work Jonesy!

[42cargo]

Nice.

Little trick with the glass if you ever do it again:

Insert the glass into the gasket.
Once the gasket is in place around the glass, insert a length of string or thin nylon line into the rubber channel of gasket. (You might need to use little bits of tape or something sticky to hold it in place.)
Insert the lower edge of the glass/gasket into the metal channel.
While someone is pressing from the outside, go in the cab and gently pull on the line so that it makes the rubber lip come over the metal channel. It takes some practice, but the idea is to pull the line in such a fashion that the lip keeps working its way into place until you get all the way around the gasket. When you're done, the line is in your hand and the window is in place.

I have to do this at some point with my truck and I'll try to take photos.

BTW, where did you get your gasket?

John

[pintelhook11over]

I learned that "rope" trick a while ago when Sgt. Hancock and Ron A. put in the glass in the rear of Ron's G-7106, But I could not scrounge up ant twine or rope at the time of install.

As for the supplies, I went to an auto glass repair shop that my company uses often hoping to get cheaper rates, They showed me a great catalog of a company called,"C.R. Laurence co.,Inc (CRL)" They make almost everything that is to be made when it comes to the glass Industry...unfortunately they are a Business to Business company. I called them for prices and they asked for my Buisness I.D. number, when I replied "I did not have one", the operator said, "sorry sir we can't release prices unless you have a business I.D. number". They just tried to refer me to authorized vendor/ shops in my area. I went to one of three "Retailers" (Prevost motorhomes) from their website and they looked at me like a weirdo...and said they don't carry that kind of weatherstripping.

I had the glass shop cut a piece of glass using my old glass so they would order the type of Weatherstripping I thought was correct (comes in 50ft rolls), to my suprize when I returned they gave me the glass and two types of rubber stripping for free. The lady behind the counter said they were "reminant" pieces of glass and rubber and if you have left over just return the remaining rubber. I measured aprox 68 inches around the perimeter of the rear cab glass.

I was a happy camper after that, I was doubting their ability to do small jobs when I got no reponse from their field service personell about acquiring the weatherstripping...but "Free" parts changed that!

[pintelhook11over]

And in this episode...I installed the dash control knob insert, routed the cables for the throttle (a.k.a. cruise control) and choke. Next, I installed most of the fire wall items...It has been too long, I had started to forget which "little" fire wall widgets go where.

Then I started soaking the door screws of disassembly and repair...Yay, more clutch head screws.

[42cargo]

Hi,

Nice work, as always. In addition to providing inspiration, you're also giving us a nice visual reference point for questions we might have on our own trucks. Thanks.

One quick observation, for what it's worth. On my truck the oil filter canister and the main air filter housing are painted orange. (Kind of like the orange that Chevy used on its engines in the '60s.) I always thought that was wrong and had intended to paint them black, but I've heard from several sources that those parts are supposed to be orange. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

John

[pintelhook11over]

Possibly it was a Fram type filter housing, I wasn't aware of other types of housings untill recently. I noticed two different decal sets offered in the JC parts catalog (Fram + A.C.), I guess the visual difference is the Fram type has a "Folded/Pleated" bottom cone on the canister housing. I have yet to see this style of housing, but it was news to me. Oh, and my oil bath air cleaner seems to be a "black" color, but I have yet to sand/clean it up.

My filter canister was painted black on the outside (as was the whole dang engine compartment), so I was going to paint it Black or O.D. Green, but during my time cleaning the canister I found light traces of grey under the retaining bands for the mouning of the canister. A few weeks later I recieved a new TM 10-1557 reprint and in the photos of the manual there is a good picture of the fire wall with "white colored" canister with an "A.C." logo on the front. Granted I made the assumption it was grey, but with traces of grey and the photo...maybe this is a early to mid war color. Several of the pictures in the manual have "early" items such as Civilian guage groups. I didn't have that type of hood grounding strap that upper left photo shows either.

Has anybody else seen a military "Folded" cone Fram filter housing or is that just a Civilian 1/2 ton item? Another thing that was odd, quite a few of the fire wall cab insulation were held in with push clips pins which state in catalogs to be for a 1936-38 if I remember corectly. Possibly they exausted all previous parts stock when they rationed all the civilian market vehicles...

[pintelhook11over]

In this episode I disassembled the doors to assess the condition of the internal components. I had only one screw failure, in the passenger side door latch control shaft...bogus. Well, I have seemed to have a semi-functional system for "stubborn" clutch head screws (works 60%-70% of the time) :
1-soak the screws with a good penitrating fluid (I like Kroil)
2- give the screw a few dozen raps on each side to "jar" the threads and loosen the rust that is accumulated
3- clean the recess for the clutch head driver tool
4- invest in a decent impact driver for clutch head bits (a drill motor w/ adjustible clutch can work also)
5- use the clutch head bit/impact driver lightly to "rattle" the threads while using moderate/heavy downward force onto the head of the screw
6- Say Hoo-Rah! when the screw backs out after these steps!
7-when these steps don't work, move to the next screw and use more aggressive tecniques later,When all the other non-stubborn screws are removed

I have found one of the best things is to clean the screw head out to allow maximum screw bit engagement, otherwise the head strips-out and the head must be "modified" for extraction or drilled out to remove it.

[pintelhook11over]

This episode I got around to sanding the doors, found the size of the previous stars, was Sandlasting the passenger door, to find a word like, "PETE or PEPE". I removed too much, too quick to read the partial word from the passenger door. I sanded the driver door but no letters were found in the same area, but I got some pictures before I sand blast the door down to Bare metal...oh and apparently this G506's last Duty Station in Civ'vy life was the "Eucalyptus Hill Ranch". I tried calling information for a listing ot the Ranch in Goleta, CA area and got through to a FAX number but it is unclear if this is the correct Ranch...one "Eucalyptus Hill" area in CA is down near San Diego, CA from what I researched briefly.

Both doors were marked the same.

[pintelhook11over]

I put the doors frames and inner door panels in the sandblaster (60in. x 60 in.) at work and got all the old paint/rust off them, they only have etching primer on them for now. They still need metal work, but I am going to experiment with soaking the bottom areas that are "rotted out" with some Evaporust solution (in home made rubber-lined wood frame tubs) to get all the rust monsters out of areas I couldn't access with the sandblaster nozzle.

I did see slight evidence of a name on the passenger door, it looked like, "_ete or_epe" in the top center edge, the driverside had no name in the same location. Unfortunatly, I didn't have my camera with me. Maybe the previous owner had a dog or friend named Pete or Pepe.

[pintelhook11over]

Here's some pictures of taking the doors apart:

I soaked the window frame screws with kroil oil, 2 of 4 failed during disassembly due to decades old rust accumulation in the screw hole, found out the window glass was dated 6-42 on both windows (just below the word "sheet"), Stripped down the window regulators to parade rest, "Massaged" the door a little and made a door jacuuzi to soak it in Evaporust (a.k.a Magic Water)to remove all the built-up rust in the door skin seams.

I recently purchased some "Civvy" windshield items, when they arrive I'll have to transfer winshield slider bar screw holes to the "new" windshield assembly for install on the cab.

[Jake Card]

I am in awe. Thank you so much for documenting all of your hard work, John!

After reading this thread and shaking my head in disbelief at your painstaking attention to detail the only thing I can think to say is that you are absolutely the freakn' Man!

Best,

Jake

[pintelhook11over]

Thanks, Jones... Cody Samuel Jones...(insert James Bond music...) Here's some pictures of me experimenting with Lead (a.k.a. Body Solder). The driver side door is pretty "Swiss cheesed" with cancer. unfortunately, I got "Champagne tastes on a Beer budget", so I'm gonna try to patch the doors first before I spend $400.00 bucks on door metal from aftermarket vendors... I soaked the door for a week in the Evaporust, cleaned the dried up residue off the door skin, used the propane torch to burn out the residual in the cracks and trimmed out some sharp metal pieces. I then sanded the lower door area, tinned the copper patch piece, cleaned the door again, "tinned" the door metal, cleaned the door again, welded the bottom edge back together, and commenced to making a mess with Lead sticks. after that I began to File down the lead to an acceptable shape, it will need more lead to be applied but I ran out of time and had to go to a family event.

The right way to repair this door is to weld in "new" metal skins and cross members, but I am being Miserly and experimenting at the same time...whats the worst thing that could happen, the patch crack-up...then I'll just have to cut/weld replacement pieces in.

The Leading area has low spots in it and will have to be built-up with more lead, but I was getting low on Lead and time so I called it a day, went home, and ordered more lead...I used about 4-5 LBS on that spot. I would say Aprox. 1 lb was lost to Filing and Drippage of molten lead.

I am just trying to fill the lower door panel with lead using the Copper plate as a anchor to bind the remaining door steel onto the copper and fill the massive gaps with lead instead of "plastic" filler. As I said with the same type of patch in the cab, I am not sure if this is gonna hold in the long run, but I haven't really ran across any "Old Timers" to ask about Lead...I haven't read about trying to patch like this it just another experiment so Standby to Standby...

[42cargo]

As always, nice work.

[Fleetmaster]

Very good job John.

I sold my derelict G7107 to my friend Nick who posted following pictures of his restoration work.
As you say, not many of these fine trucks find a new life but its comforting to see some are saved.

https://picasaweb.google.com/chevyg7107 ... oletG7107#


Very soon I'll be taking this early series G7106 dump version trough a full restoration.



Bart

[SteveG]

Bart,
How about that '41 Buick in the background..............?
Steve Gregori