SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Military Trucks 1/2 ton thru 2 ton, Wanted, For Sale (NO AUCTION or EBAY), and Knowledge Base
Post Reply
pintelhook11over
G-Major
G-Major
Posts: 870
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:45 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by pintelhook11over » Sun Jul 30, 2017 9:33 pm

Got to try my hand crank today, and it fires right UP!

The rotation feels like three points with resistance, those are the three spots of compression in the 360 of rotation of the engine crank shaft (fires every 120 degrees of rotation), I just pushed through 1 of 3 compression cycles in the engine

Must be cause there was more of the 6 volts to feed the points, I had started it and let it warm up too so it wasn't a "Cold start". I have to try that next time...check it out!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSeXoku ... e=youtu.be
1942 G7117 No. 389946
1945 G527 Serial no.9218
USN CM3 NMCB "4"
Cat Field SVC/GPS installer
Cat Main shop Mech


forestry4evr
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1916
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 9:09 am
Location: Western North Carolina

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by forestry4evr » Sun Aug 06, 2017 4:39 am

Cody,

I didn't think it would be possible to remove/install a steering box seal with the assembly on the truck. Pretty creative. Please let us know if the seal works out.

Your troops seats look great. One would be hard pressed to tell the brackets are not WW2 Chevy once it is all together. Do you mind posting the cost per board foot for kiln dried red oak lumber out your way in CA?

I sourced a hand crank for my non-winch 41 but have not had the nerve to actually start the engine with it, your video has gotten me thinking...

Thanks for sharing your progress.

Paul
1941 G4112 Chevrolet with Hercules dump bed

pintelhook11over
G-Major
G-Major
Posts: 870
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:45 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by pintelhook11over » Tue Aug 22, 2017 7:22 pm

So far no oil leaks from lip seal, I did have to tighten the bolts for the sector gear cover, they loosened up some.

I don't remember what I did with that wood receipt...(C.R.S. kicking in), $ 240 bucks was the approximate cost, I believe I got 68 board feet of 1 inch. I was gonna get 5/4 thick, but the wood was already planed down. I am not the best lumber picker, there was a plank about 10 inches x 8 foot left over that I gave to my brother in law, so it was probably more like 55-ish board feet. It is kinda hard finding decent wood in the racks without buying too much waste material.

Try the hand crank, it works good! When I tried it with a cold engine I had to pump the gas 2-3 times and use the throttle cable knob to keep the rev's up a bit past idle since I was too far away from the throttle pedal to pump the pedal.

I Finally got a NDT spare tire from Lucas in Long Beach Ca, It is the same S.T.A. brand to match the others. I wasn't too keen on the Bracket though, if one thing is "Under Engineered" it is that. I got it up in the stowed position and bonked it some and it wobbles pretty good. I wiggles/wobbles quickly for 15-20 seconds or so. I could total see why the end up cracking up and falling off. I am gonna make a safety retainer of sorts with a piece of chain and an existing hole in the bottom of the bed to keep it from falling down to the deck and try to reduce torsional vibration during operation.

It is quite a bit of weight on that bracket...it is puting a lot of faith in that Single retaining stud and that hook tooth. The hook tooth seems to sit lower and lower as the stud is tightened, but without the wheel nut that hook tooth wouldn't hold that spare assembly up. Hitting a bump on the trail would probably "unload" the hook tooth and let the tire/bracket come crashing down and turn it into the oh so familiar broken bracket.

ImageImageImageImageImageImage
1942 G7117 No. 389946
1945 G527 Serial no.9218
USN CM3 NMCB "4"
Cat Field SVC/GPS installer
Cat Main shop Mech

pintelhook11over
G-Major
G-Major
Posts: 870
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:45 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by pintelhook11over » Tue Aug 22, 2017 8:02 pm

Here is the pics of my first break in oil change. The filter housing had a decent amount of sludge in it, I wasn't expecting that.

I think it may be the oil flushing out the sludge from behind the oil pan baffles. I'm not sure if that is a characteristic of a 235 "By-pass" lubrication circuit in the engine. I'm leaning towards the detergent in the modern oil breaking down the oil residue in the oil pan.

If you get 2 screwdrivers and put them under the filter it will drain into the filter housing instead of dripping a big trail of oil across everything in engine compartment. It will still be drippy, but it helps with reducing the mess. I roughly measured the oil level in the housing after I let it drip for 10-15 minutes, it was about 3 inches (76mm) from the top or so. It almost worked out to a 1.5-1.75 quarts (1.4-1.6 liters), You'll still need to put the normal 5 quarts (4.73 liters) in the crankcase. Be sure to check the dipstick and calibrate the dipstick if required. The dipstick tube is removeable, it may be positioned wrong.

I used the Diesel oil because they have more carbon dispursants and a higher lever of Zinc for the tappets. The oil I had in it to break it in was Valvoline Conventional 10W-30. I asked the Machinist what oil to run with those old crank bearings and his respose was "10-30". I said "What about 15-40" and his response was "No, 10-30!" After that I said O.K."

Being that winter oil is 10 weight and summer is 30 weight, I guess that is good to go. I usually run Valvoline, they have been around for over 100 years, but as long as the A.P.I. rating is the highest available, brand name is personal preference. All Oils are not created equal, it is good to pick the correct type, but it is challenging to make an educated choice for a 75 year old truck. Mil Spec oils are current oils for current vehicles, but I went to look for GAA at local petroleum vendors and they kinda gave me the "??? Why do you want that?" look. So Military oils aren't always readily availible through civilian channels.

Here is the Gas/ Diesel oil info:

http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage
1942 G7117 No. 389946
1945 G527 Serial no.9218
USN CM3 NMCB "4"
Cat Field SVC/GPS installer
Cat Main shop Mech

D.R.H.
G-Major General
G-Major General
Posts: 3472
Joined: Sat Jun 05, 2010 2:51 pm
Location: Evergreen State

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by D.R.H. » Wed Aug 23, 2017 4:36 pm

AAAHHHH Jonesy, You beat me to it with Your spare tire carrier. It looks great!! Be sure to take some pics of Your "chain idea" when the task is completed, I like to see that. Where do You think all that sludge came from, remnants of assembly lube perhaps?
Keep up the great work! D.
In Loving Memoriam: George R. Hancock. 20 Mar. 1938 - 11 Jan. 2017. U.S.A.F. 1956 - 1962. R.I.P. Dad.
In Loving Memoriam: Ann Hancock, 08 Mar. 1934 - 25 Sept. 2021. R.N. 1960 - 2005. R.I.P. Mom.
Thank You BOTH for always being there.

My YouTube Channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaMKEv ... M3g/videos.

pintelhook11over
G-Major
G-Major
Posts: 870
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:45 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by pintelhook11over » Fri Sep 08, 2017 6:06 pm

Here is the way I have made a Safety/Security chain with the existing holes in side of the Left front of the bed. They are loose and jiggly, but It gives me the warm fuzzies that it won't drop and make contact with the road during driving.

2--- 1/4 inch chains @ 36 inches
2--- 1/4 snap links to join the chains
2--- 3/8 Eye links to anchor the chains
4----3/8-16 nuts
4--- 3/8 fender washers

ImageImageImageImageImageImage
1942 G7117 No. 389946
1945 G527 Serial no.9218
USN CM3 NMCB "4"
Cat Field SVC/GPS installer
Cat Main shop Mech

pintelhook11over
G-Major
G-Major
Posts: 870
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:45 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by pintelhook11over » Thu Nov 23, 2017 9:39 am

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!!

Figured I'd send a SITREP

So far 750 miles on the old 4x4 Chevy with on the one initial tow back to the yard due to a plugged fuel tank pick up line in the tank (Before the rubber hose on the outside of the tank). Been keeping an eye on the whole thing, got a few clutch head screws rattled out of the driver door, one brake light switch failure (during pre-trip), one generator mounting bolt nut that rattles off (noticed during pretrip). Seems to fire up easy on the single 6 VDC battery but I still have 2 in parallel for an alternate power source.

I got froggy and made it to the Dodge rally in Lytle creek Ca and it was Outstanding! Bravo Zulu to the individuals that put on the event! 18 mile loop on fire roads up in the mountains!!! Thanks Primal4X4!

I figured if I was gonna have a failure it would be on the trail...kinda rough downshifting from 3rd to 2nd on an incline though!

I kept it in 2nd most of the way in the elevated rev's range since the altitude was 4000-5000 feet (1219-1524 Meters) range. I wasn't sure how the Carter W-1 would act away from the 1000 foot (304 Meters) range it normally has been driving in. It ran fine, it didn't seem to lack power at a higher elevation.

Be advised:

Keep an extra brake light switch or a 1/8 inch pipe plug to stop a brake light switch failure, this will result in a Halt of movement, the G506 does not like to stop with the parking brake only! The Parking brake "Chatters" alot and is an emergency technique only! I drove it about 3 blocks at 15-20 miles an hour until I got to a NAPA and used SL134 and some more DOT 3 to get back under way.

Here are pics of bivouac at Flabob airport:

rolled in 21:00 Friday, Light Messing performed: had bacon and eggs, salami and cheese sandwiches with chips for lunch, and fruit for snacking.
rolled out 17:00 Saturday, no issues

ImageImage
1942 G7117 No. 389946
1945 G527 Serial no.9218
USN CM3 NMCB "4"
Cat Field SVC/GPS installer
Cat Main shop Mech

pintelhook11over
G-Major
G-Major
Posts: 870
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:45 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by pintelhook11over » Sat Dec 30, 2017 8:10 am

Hello! I got froggy a while back and experimented with making my own door stars, I figured it was good word to pass.

I watched a good video on you tube on how make 5 point stars, it works well, you'll just need a big compass or an improvised compass like I did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75VUFa73o1U

Then I looked at my old door stars and made them to the same approximate size, my stars were smaller than the AR 850 said. The stars on the truck were aprox. 15 inches (.381 meters), the AR says 26 inches, (.660 meters) that is much larger than what was on the door!

They came out good, a little bleeding in a few spots, but over all good for an experiment

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage
1942 G7117 No. 389946
1945 G527 Serial no.9218
USN CM3 NMCB "4"
Cat Field SVC/GPS installer
Cat Main shop Mech

pintelhook11over
G-Major
G-Major
Posts: 870
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:45 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by pintelhook11over » Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:47 am

Hello, I'e been experimenting with using my phone to film while driving, the quality is poor...I tried 2 phone mounts, one was long and super wobbly, the second was short and not as wobbly, the third try was short with rubber bands as an attempt in stabilization but all of them are super shaky.

I would like to get a Go Pro and try filming with that to see how it operates, anybody try that yet?

The Commanding officer says I've got to standby for a bit longer to bring in a new piece of gear into the TO&E...

Here is the link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9I8MwS2obfQ
1942 G7117 No. 389946
1945 G527 Serial no.9218
USN CM3 NMCB "4"
Cat Field SVC/GPS installer
Cat Main shop Mech

Tonywan Kanobby
G-Second Lieutenant
G-Second Lieutenant
Posts: 599
Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2013 2:25 pm
Location: Northern Cal.

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by Tonywan Kanobby » Mon Feb 19, 2018 2:39 pm

That was fun. Thanks for the lift ! :D

kelley
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1582
Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2012 4:17 pm
Location: Massachusetts (The Pay state)

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by kelley » Mon Feb 19, 2018 3:11 pm

Great Video, thanks for posting.My Commanding officer put me on attic insulation duty.
Kelley

forestry4evr
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1916
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 9:09 am
Location: Western North Carolina

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by forestry4evr » Mon Feb 19, 2018 5:24 pm

Thanks for letting us come for a ride. Your double clutching is really getting good.
1941 G4112 Chevrolet with Hercules dump bed

pintelhook11over
G-Major
G-Major
Posts: 870
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:45 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by pintelhook11over » Mon Apr 16, 2018 3:05 pm

Here are some photo's of flushing the Trans out by pulling the PTO cover, Also some pictures of re-sealing the manifolds.

The Old War Horse has about 1400 miles (2253 Km) on her now, but I kept having to re-seal the intake/exhaust manifolds every 500 miles or so. I would attribute this to corroded hardware that holds the 2 manifolds together letting the exhaust "pull away" from the cylinder head. The Intake I am using is an early war manifold original to the truck when I got it, the other 2 manifolds I have are mid war/ later war with different vacuum port configurations and carb mounting bolt holes. The exhaust port on 4/5 was where it was leaking the most, the carbon trail can be seen on the side of the engine block. I thought it was the collector doughnut but it was the under side of the exhaust. Unfortunately It overheated the port pretty bad and made the sealing surface "bumpy", it will have to be resurfaced to fix it right, as a temporary fix I just block sanded it and cleaned the ports thoroughly.

The Trans oil had a few chunks/ flakes of metal from my learning to double clutch sessions...but the suspended metal in the oil was very fine and settled mostly down in the PTO sump. I figured it would be a good way to do a good flush with the side of the PTO open and inspect the gears since I only have the 1 PTO for the winch and no core to tinker with. The top front bolt is a tight clearance, I had to slightly push the trans with a pry bar to get the bolt all the way out.

The trans output yoke and rear shift shafts were leaking oil pretty good, I doctored them up by using some black RTV around them after cleaning the surface oil off. I will have to see how well it works sealing it up this time. The retaining bolt has spline marks that I'm not used to seeing and they are made too perfect to be wear marks, they had to be stamped at General Motors like that. The shift shaft bores are loose, not much else I can do for those unless I hammer peen around the bore holes and try to shrink the outer side of the trans case. I went for a torque of 30 ft lbs (40.67 Nm) on the retaining bolt, went for the same on the side PTO cover. I had 1 upper bolt for the brace feel "spongy" so I left it at 25 ft lbs (33.90 Nm) so I didn't have to repair the threads with an insert.

Be Advised:

Clean the "sludge" in the bolt holes, be sure to clean them so the PTO/Trans cases don't crack when the bolts get torqued back in. I found that out the hard way with the top cover bolts in another trans I have...

I knew the hardware was going to fail after being on there for 76 years, so I have been putting off this tasking for a long time, nobody likes digging out broken bolts...especially on manifolds that are getting hard to come across anymore. Now I have to see how long they will go before I have to re-seal again. I bought the a few studs and then used a jam nut to secure them to the manifold with ALOT of anti-sieze.

Be Advised:

The manifold holes for the hardware is a pretty exact bolt pattern, I Drilled/Tapped the broken bolts off just a frog hair off and it shows up in the form of mis-alignment of the intake and exhaust sealing surfaces being on a single plane. The technique I used for correcting the misalignment of the studs/ threaded holes is drill out the manifold holes from 7/16 to 1/2 inch. I wouldn't got bigger than 1/2 because the holes make the cast iron too thin after that.

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage
1942 G7117 No. 389946
1945 G527 Serial no.9218
USN CM3 NMCB "4"
Cat Field SVC/GPS installer
Cat Main shop Mech

pintelhook11over
G-Major
G-Major
Posts: 870
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:45 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by pintelhook11over » Mon Apr 16, 2018 3:45 pm

Manifold Pictures:

You can get away with not taking all the cables/linkages off the carb by using some bailing wire to support the carb up and out of the way, then pull off the governor/ vacuume plate parts under the carb. Take off the retaining hardware and related items, pull the last 2 nuts from the front and rear studs and pull latterally to clear the alignment sleeves in the cylinder head, then lower down into the area by the steering box. The horn has to be removed from the Intake also, watch out for touching ground/metal/earth, I just taped up the electrical terminals of the horn so I didn't have to disconnect the battery. Be sure to not spill the oil in the air cleaner, mine had a fair amount of dirt in the bottom so be sure to flush and fill with the correct amount of oil, its about 1 quart (.946 L)

The drilling and tapping is a rough time, I've done lots of broken bolts in my day, but the margin for error on these manifolds in very little, I wasn't afraid to try it, but in hind sight it would be better to have a competent machine shop chuck it up to a mill or bridge port to get good angles of drilling and tapping. I don't have a big drill press at home so I did it with free hand and made some errors...I had to enlarge the bolt/stud holes to make the manifolds mounting patterns match. Not good for an already thin cast iron area.

Be Advised:

When scraping the old gaskets there IS old asbestos gasket material! Don't breath the dust when cleaning old original gaskets!!! I used an old scraper blade, not a pneumatic sanding disc or flapper wheel to make fine dust!

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage
1942 G7117 No. 389946
1945 G527 Serial no.9218
USN CM3 NMCB "4"
Cat Field SVC/GPS installer
Cat Main shop Mech

gentrysgarage
Sergeant Major of the Gee
Sergeant Major of the Gee
Posts: 300
Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2015 6:25 pm
Location: Lost Angels California

Re: SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

Post by gentrysgarage » Mon Apr 16, 2018 7:24 pm

As always Thanks for the great posts and step by step procedure..with part numbers to!
Proud caretaker of U.S.A. truck 3219442-S 1943 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine 1 1/2 4x4


Post Reply

Return to “Trucks 1/2 ton thru 2 ton”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 60 guests