G-506 Chev. rear axle outer lock nut w/seal.

[Sgt. Hancock]

Gentlemen,
I recently needed to replace the rear axle outer lock nut with seal and was told that the nut itself is OBSOLETE. Don't throw it away. I inspected the nut assy. more closely and did discover the axle nut and seal are two parts that can be separated and the seal portion replaced. I have quite a generous stash of the seal portion that is neoprene. The leather ones are also obsolete. If you find gear oil on the inside of your outer rear wheel, this as a good mechanic knows, is the sign of a failing seal. If anyone needs some, please let me know. I am happy to instruct the trick to separate the assy.. Reassy. is simple. Respectfully, Dave.

[notoriois1785]

do you have any of those seals left, if so how much are they......what manual is best for working on 506 trucks ? any help would be appreciated

[phillip.w.givens]

hello

you can still get the seals from vechicles of victory too and and i was also able to get for the part store but they are expensive and they had to order them

if you need nut i took my best ones to my local machine shop to have them made that the best thing to do if you dont find any and whats the best way to install the seal with out damaging them thanks

[Dr Deuce]

The chev/CCKW banjo seal was an after though and that is about how it works. You need to make sure that it presses up against the axle shaft flange, but not too hard. Too loose and it leaks GO into the bearings and then brakes, too tight and it will not last. You can adjust the pressure (from too loose) by prying the seal out of the nut a little. Make sure you do it evenly.

[Sgt. Hancock]

Dr. Deuce, I will disagree with you on your statement of the outer lock nut/seal being an after thought. How was the gear oil supposed to stay in the axle tube? It is this nut/seal assembly that prevents the gear oil from washing the wheel bearing grease OUT of the wheel bearings It is the first line of defense to keep the gear oil from bypassing the inner hub seal and saturating the brake shoes, rendering them useless. The originals nut/seal assy. was leather.
Not an after thought by the manufacturer, but a purposefully built design from the drafting table. All full floating hypoid axles have a seal similar to this one.

[Sgt. Hancock]

do you have any of those seals left, if so how much are they......what manual is best for working on 506 trucks ? any help would be appreciated

Sorry buddy, when I sold my Chevy in Oct. of 2011, EVERYTHING I had went with it. Where do you live? I have restored 4 of these fine trucks and have the possibility to restore another, and enjoy helping others with theirs.
Let me know what I can to be of service. Dave.

[Dr Deuce]

After thought? Civy trucks of that era (all the same parts) did NOT have that seal. It WAS an after thought. CCKW bsplits did it the correct way

[Sgt. Hancock]

The seal for the Jimmy Banjo axle is different from the Chevy Banjo axle. The Jimmy seal is encapsulated in a steel housing that fits over the axle flange studs which are in the hub assy., before the axle shaft is slid into the axle tube. The 8 National Fine Thread nuts are then secured into place with a 9/16 inch socket or wrench, your preference.
Better recheck your service manuals.

[Dr Deuce]

What you described is th CCKW SPLIT axle seal. The banjo seal is the same for the CCKW banjo and Chevy mil trucks. The "after thought". The civy one is non-existant. I have CCKW banjo's, CCKW splits, mil Chevys and civy Chevys.

[Sgt. Hancock]

Dr. Doooosh. First off your spelling is very poor. You have left conjunctions and letters out of your typed words and sentences in your posts. This makes it difficult for anyone with any intelligence to understand the point you're trying to make.
Secondly, this entire web page is dedicated to, "EVERYTHING YOU ALWAYS WANTED KNOW ABOUT MILITARY VEHICLES", not civilian trucks. What I had to offer others was for the G-506 series Chevrolet WW2 Military trucks.
Next, you don't adjust this particular seal type by prying it out of the rear spindle lock nut and "hoping to get it even it the lock nut". The amount of seal pressure against the axle flange is adjusted by utilizing steel and paper gaskets between the hub and axle flange. If you provide mechanical service to your trucks the same way you described adjusting the seal pressure, you are doing a disservice to the operational integrity of your vehicles. Your brakes will become oil saturated and fail right when you need them most!
So, stop trying to split hairs with me.

[Ben Dover]

There is no adjustment for the outer axle seal installed on the Banjo CCKW and Chev 4X4 outer nut. There us enough material to this sead (made of Leather or Rubber) to effective compress and seal the space between the outer nut and inside of the axle flange.
There is only one proper gasket and that is the original GM-3660100 GASKET, Internediate and Rear Axle Shaft Flange. Itis made of Terneplate, a soft metal that compresses and allows installation preventing any motion of the Axle Flange on the Hub.
The CCKW and Chev 4X4 have a chronic problem of motion at this point when paper gaskets or Silicone are used as a sealer. This is due to a 7/16" NC bolt being used with no precision shoulder or tapered Washers to secure the axle flang. The threads in the hubs can get egg shaped if the Terneplate gasket is not used.
I have seen CCKW's and Chev 4X4's with the axles welded to the hubs due to incorrect installation.

[Sgt. Hancock]

Ben by your post, I read that even you know that there is a factory designed, rear spindle outer lock nut and oil seal assembly. This is one of the first things I learned about when I had my Chevy G-506. Since then I have helped to restore 4 others and found that most have the original leather type nut/seal.
I find it exhausting when someone chimes in with a non-sense statement of it being, "an afterthought" installation.
Thank you for your supporting post. Dave.

[Dr Deuce]

Let’s see:
All full floating hypoid axles have a seal similar to this one. Not true. As I explained, the Civy Chevrolets did NOT have any seal at the end
The seal for the Jimmy Banjo axle is different from the Chevy Banjo axle Not True. As I explained, the CCKW SPLIT axle has the seal you described. The CCKW banjo and Chevrolet seals and most parts are the same. CCKWs wer made with either SPLIT or BANJO axles.
Dr. Doooosh. First off your spelling is very poor. You have left conjunctions and letters out of your typed words and sentences in your posts. This makes it difficult for anyone with any intelligence to understand the point you're trying to make. Ah, the point? You must be a Democrat. Can’t argue the point, go for insults.
Secondly, this entire web page is dedicated to, "EVERYTHING YOU ALWAYS WANTED KNOW ABOUT MILITARY VEHICLES", not civilian trucks. What I had to offer others was for the G-506 series Chevrolet WW2 Military trucks. I have the same to offer PLUS knowing which parts from the civy trucks of that era will work is a big help. Go to your auto parts store and tell them you want an inner wheel bearing seal for a 1944 Chevrolet Army truck. They will look at you like you have 2 heads. Then ask if they might have an inner wheel bearing seal for a 1946 Chevrolet truck of the same size etc. They might be able to help you with the 2nd one.
Next, you don't adjust this particular seal type by prying it out of the rear spindle lock nut and "hoping to get it even it the lock nut". The amount of seal pressure against the axle flange is adjusted by utilizing steel and paper gaskets between the hub and axle flange. And if the seal does not touch the inner flange, then what? I have had seals not touch, touch just right and a couple grind down after a short while. I have designed molded plastic parts in my past Engineering life and you have to do a parts tolerance stack-up to make sure all the parts will fit even with a worst case tolerance, all in the worst possible direction for all the parts. Draw a picture of how all the various parts affect where that seal is; inner WB, outer WB, both races, the hub, the thickness of the 2 nuts, the thickness of the lock plate, etc.
Not an after-thought by the manufacturer, but a purposefully built design from the drafting table. As I explained, the civy truck of that era does NOT have that part which means that when they got the order for these trucks, they had to devise a seal. Go and look in a Chevrolet Master Parts Catalogue and you will find that all the parts in the civy truck are the same except the axle (differ # of splines) and the side gears (same reason, different number of splines) You can even change the ring and pinion gears (in matched pairs) to the civy rations is you so desired.
I have seen a couple of parts trucks with axles welded like Ben Dover described. My 1946 civy dump truck has studs with lock washers and nuts, then a steel plate like the axle gasket then another set of lock washers, and nuts in an attempt to prevent anything from loosening. The split set up for the outer seal and tapered locks is a much better idea. You could never make a DUKW with Split axles though because of the inner WB seal and the fact that the DIKW wheels will not fit over the brake drum flange.

[Ben Dover]

If these seals do not fit, then the hub is installed incorrectly. I have no idea how that could happen on such a simple truck.

[Sgt. Hancock]

You are an antagonistic jerk, dr. doosh. I don't care what you have to write about. I never offered a civilian truck lock nut/seal, which is the whole point you are arguing about. I had several to share with others that fit the G-506 TWO WHOLE YEARS AGO in this thread that someone dug up and was curious about. You just felt the need put your two wood nickels of opinion out there, and here we are.
So whatever Dick!