1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
I've had limited success with frozen fasteners. I will share some ideas that I use or that I've seen used successfully.
When I soak, I turn the part so that a puddle can form and then penetrate on its own - and it does take a while. Then I wrench/screw in both directions. Breaking through rust using penetrant works in both directions. And once I do achieve movement, I work the threads like a tap/die and always back off in the opposite direction to allow more penetrant (keep applying) into the threads as I go.
If soaking doesn't work, I try shocking the parts similar to what an impact wrench does. Sometimes a controlled hammering will break up stubborn rust. Using a screwdriver on the head can concentrate the force as opposed to beating on the surrounding area. I won't tap the threaded end as this is a guarantee to ruin your chances of removal. Then I go back to the above technique of moving the threads both ways.
Heat is another effective option. Metal expands when heated. This includes the female threads of a hole in a manifold/block or a nut. A larger diameter in this case increases the gap with the fastener (bolt/screw). It's almost impossible to pinpoint heat application, i.e. heat up the nut without heating the bolt/screw. So they will most likely expand together. A good aim will help to create differential but then applying more penetrant in between heating applications on the bolt/screw will increase the differential by cooling that part. I don't use this technique much as I don't like playing with open flames around other combustibles found in a typical garage.
As a last resort, I sacrifice the fastener. Either a vise grip will hold the head or nut while I force the other end to turn (my opinion is the nut will move first as opposed to the screw/bolt) - or - I cut one end off, either the head of the fastener or the nut, with a cutoff wheel then tap out the remainder of the fastener.
Any of these techniques will benefit from a lot of patience. Good luck.
When I soak, I turn the part so that a puddle can form and then penetrate on its own - and it does take a while. Then I wrench/screw in both directions. Breaking through rust using penetrant works in both directions. And once I do achieve movement, I work the threads like a tap/die and always back off in the opposite direction to allow more penetrant (keep applying) into the threads as I go.
If soaking doesn't work, I try shocking the parts similar to what an impact wrench does. Sometimes a controlled hammering will break up stubborn rust. Using a screwdriver on the head can concentrate the force as opposed to beating on the surrounding area. I won't tap the threaded end as this is a guarantee to ruin your chances of removal. Then I go back to the above technique of moving the threads both ways.
Heat is another effective option. Metal expands when heated. This includes the female threads of a hole in a manifold/block or a nut. A larger diameter in this case increases the gap with the fastener (bolt/screw). It's almost impossible to pinpoint heat application, i.e. heat up the nut without heating the bolt/screw. So they will most likely expand together. A good aim will help to create differential but then applying more penetrant in between heating applications on the bolt/screw will increase the differential by cooling that part. I don't use this technique much as I don't like playing with open flames around other combustibles found in a typical garage.
As a last resort, I sacrifice the fastener. Either a vise grip will hold the head or nut while I force the other end to turn (my opinion is the nut will move first as opposed to the screw/bolt) - or - I cut one end off, either the head of the fastener or the nut, with a cutoff wheel then tap out the remainder of the fastener.
Any of these techniques will benefit from a lot of patience. Good luck.
Last edited by Rus Curtis on Mon Jan 18, 2016 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Rus Curtis
'54 CJ-3B
T3-C
'54 CJ-3B
T3-C
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
I got them off with the heat. It was amazing! I heated it to red then backed off and the screw just started turning. Thanks guys!
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
Where is the stamped code located? I have an M100 which I stripped and rebuilt but didnt see a code stamped anywhere.
Graeme
Graeme
1944 Ford GPW 196813
1942 Willys 120630
1951 Dunbar Kapple M100 Trailer
1944 Harley-Davidson WLA
1942 Willys 120630
1951 Dunbar Kapple M100 Trailer
1944 Harley-Davidson WLA
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
The stamp is on top of the left A frame (looking forward toward the lunette if you are sitting in the trailer) that has the lunette on the end. Keep in mind this is a Canadian model.
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
Been a long while since I posted. Here are some progress photos.
Here is how banged up the drain plug brackets were. Had to use heat to get them off and then straighten them:
Here is how banged up the drain plug brackets were. Had to use heat to get them off and then straighten them:
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
With the plugs installed:
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
Here is the banged up lunette bolt:
And the replacement kindly provided by Stirstick:
And the replacement kindly provided by Stirstick:
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
Way incorrect 416 type chains that I managed to sell:
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
Repairs being made to the numerous holes encountered in the tub:
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- G-Major General
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
Purchased an original plug from a swap meet for like 5 bucks and soaked it in molasses for a couple of weeks and disassembled. I cleaned it, had to drill out and replace a couple of the screws:
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
Purchased original THREE wire intra-vehicle cable off of the auction site:
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Re: 1952 M100 Trailer Restoration Thread
I replicated the original cardboard collar type stuff using gasket material:
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