Spot the bodge

[Daren]

I have just stripped down my rear axle and whilst removing the pion I found a previous repairer had used his initiative with the pinion shims. Surely it would have been easier to have bought a new shim instead of making one our of ...............
A Dr Pepper can!
I would add a photo but my camera photos are are too big even when I have reduced the size as much as I can on my phone.
So has anyone found similar bodged on their jeeps?

[Wolfman]

After dealing with the human race for 50+ years, nothing the human race does surprises me. Sometimes humorous and then there is the other stuff.
As for shims, I have made shims out of an assortment of things and found shims made out of an assortment of things.
Don't recall ever making or finding shims made out of Dr. Pepper cans. But if it worked.............
Was it the shim under the rear bearing cup to adjust the pinion depth or the shim under the front bearing cone to adjust the pinion bearing pre-load ??
I would want the shim under the rear race to be steel, not aluminum. It is the shim that is under the most pressure. Under a load, the pinion is pushing against it.
The front shim just holds the two bearing cones apart. But personally, I would want it to be steel as well.

[W. Winget]

I found an "F" head script bolt that had nothing to do with the rear axle or pinion dropped in my rear axle when I went to change oil the 1st time and inspect it after purchase. Bolt was a little chewed up, pinon and gears fine. I suspect a Motor Pool Mechanic had a grudge against someone that drove the jeep and didn't get a pass or such, so he was trying to sabotage it as payback , but it ended up laying in the bottom of the diff.
Only reason I can think of having an extra bolt that didn't apply to any part of the rear axle in there .
V/R W Winget

[artificer]

I would want the shim under the rear race to be steel, not aluminum.

Thought you would remember Dr. Pepper & other beverages, in tin plated steel cans in SVN.

[Daren]

Hi it was one of the shims for pinion height adjustment. It made me laugh and was slightly ironic as Dr Pepper is my prefered soft drink.
I have now ordered a shim kit, but now have to find a good DIY method for measuring the correct height of the pinion. Any one got any ideas as I don't have the correct tool for this job.

[JIMN]

Hi Daren,
To start with, since you want new shims, just measure the shim packs you took out (including the can!), and put the same amount back in.

You don't need a pinion depth gauge to set pinion depth. You can see the actual depth with gear marking compound. It is more important to check your true gear contact pattern anyway.
You will want a torque wrench that reads inch pounds to set the pinion bearing pre-load.
You will want some gear marking compound of course.
You will want a dial indicator (preferably with a magnetic base) to check your backlash.

My guess is if they knew they needed another shim and made it out of a Dr Pepper can, they possibly knew how to set up the differential, so don't be surprised if it was set up properly.
There are plenty of directions on the internet on how to set up Dana/Spicer differentials. They will explain it all And asking a friend to help who is already comfortable with doing it might help even more...

[artificer]

With all due respect, unless the pinion depth is very close to spot on one will be chasing their tail trying to get a good contact pattern reading. That is why one always should get pinion depth right first.
There is a special tool for such purposes & matched set's pinion's are are marked +/-.

TM 9 1803B is a free download from Jeepdraw.

Most don't have access to such a tool & I'd suggest one starts from where their current pinion is shimmed & go from there.

[JIMN]

With all due respect.....

mutually...

I have done plenty of set ups from scratch on Dana axles without a pinion depth gauge. I figure if I can do it anybody can do it. No tail chasing.
I think it is kind of fun actually.
Since he already has a starting point (knowing about what shims he pulled out), that will make it even easier and probably give him the equal head start that you get with a depth gauge.

[Wolfman]

I have not seen anything in steel cans since drinking Carling Black Label in rusty steel cans back in the Central Highlands. Even hot, it was better than a canteen of swamp water and iodine pills !! It was like Christmas when we got Budweiser !!
I can remember Dr Pepper in glass bottles we got at the local grocery store down the street from my grand parents house. For a Nickel . That was 1955 maybe. In a cooler filled with water. The bottles hung on rails suspended in the cold water. You raised the lid. Put your nickel in the slot. Pulled the bottle down the rail track to a trap door and pulled the bottle out.
Flashback !!
My daughter just brought some Dr Pepper in cans over. They are in the frig. now. I feel a science project coming on. ( I bet they are aluminum. )
Like most things. I bet it was better in the glass bottle.
Oh. I agree with the guys. Always save your shims if you can. Gives you a great place to start.

[Wolfman]

Up date.
The magnet feel off.
Now we know what Dr Pepper cans are made of in North Central Indiana. ( I am sure it is not stainless. )

[Daren]

Thanks for all your input guys. I will measure the thickness of the can shim and try and match it with a proper shim.
All the best for the holidays