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Rebuild of GPW 238336
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
I removed the genny splash shield from the frame. It's broken, but original GPW, so I'll try to cut and weld the missing part from a new sheet.
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
Hi folks, here I am again!
Yesterday I stripped the two axles, because I was curious to know what kind of surprises were waiting for me!
There's a lot to say so I'll try to go step by step.
First, the front axle.
Let's pass on the "that f* ù:;$$ thing weights a ton" , and also on how much it hurts when it falls right on your foot. .
The axle itself is a GP8075, that's a good start.
Then the drums:
Pass side has cast numbers that doesn't speak much to me:
And a big X where the "F" should be. Maybe a Willys thing? Any info welcome!
Driver's side looks correct, script F on the usual location:
And 24566 GP1125, plus some Z or N upstairs.
Nice markings on the brake hose clips:
Brake hose guards are both unmarked, is this OK for a late GPW?
Both backing plates are Bendix, as are the 4 brake shoes.
Brake cylinders are both Lockheed, but one has no number on it? Both are not frozen, I'll try to find another one to match a pair and go for a rebuild!
Pistons, seals and rubber boots also say Lockheed USA
Hub drive flanges both have markings that look very postwar to me, shims behind are unmarked (and ruined!)
Surprisingly, all the wheel bearing nuts were loose, but at least they came out easily by hand!
Again, all washers unmarked.
3 out of 4 bearings are us made Timken, one is french made.
Remember I am in France, the Jeep came from France, and has never been in the french army, so whatever says "made in usa" is probably original to the car, or at least wartime.
Yesterday I stripped the two axles, because I was curious to know what kind of surprises were waiting for me!
There's a lot to say so I'll try to go step by step.
First, the front axle.
Let's pass on the "that f* ù:;$$ thing weights a ton" , and also on how much it hurts when it falls right on your foot. .
The axle itself is a GP8075, that's a good start.
Then the drums:
Pass side has cast numbers that doesn't speak much to me:
And a big X where the "F" should be. Maybe a Willys thing? Any info welcome!
Driver's side looks correct, script F on the usual location:
And 24566 GP1125, plus some Z or N upstairs.
Nice markings on the brake hose clips:
Brake hose guards are both unmarked, is this OK for a late GPW?
Both backing plates are Bendix, as are the 4 brake shoes.
Brake cylinders are both Lockheed, but one has no number on it? Both are not frozen, I'll try to find another one to match a pair and go for a rebuild!
Pistons, seals and rubber boots also say Lockheed USA
Hub drive flanges both have markings that look very postwar to me, shims behind are unmarked (and ruined!)
Surprisingly, all the wheel bearing nuts were loose, but at least they came out easily by hand!
Again, all washers unmarked.
3 out of 4 bearings are us made Timken, one is french made.
Remember I am in France, the Jeep came from France, and has never been in the french army, so whatever says "made in usa" is probably original to the car, or at least wartime.
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
Moving on to the knuckles.
Grease seals are the rubber/felt type. I've seen NOS seals advertised as Ford ones with this part number, and Willys ones with a different number.
On passenger side, very nice surprise!!
Judging by the toothed washer marks on the alloy seal bodies, this one has never been moved from where it was, and there's no evidence one was fitted on drivers side, as all stud holes have heavy and consistant washer grind marks.
The two knuckle housings are F stamped (with an artistic feel, maybe Rosie was tired?), and have another stamping I don't recognise.
By the way, I miss 2 bolts and washers, plain, like these: has someone got some spare originals?
The two spindles have big block Fs in the casting, is that a Ford thing? I believe so, as I'll show later the same block Fs with script Fs on the same part, and even a lot of backwards block Fs.
I guess these have the unshouldered bronze inner sleeve, what's the difference? is that a Rzeppa vs Tracta vs bendix feature?
Next are the king pins. There's a lot of play!
Lower pins, both F marked:
But sadly also very dead!
I've found cheap NOS ones, I think I'll change them. Not interesting to change just the pins, as they are the only F marked things on the part, and that would also cost me more than the 2 NOS.
The upper steering levers are also f marked on top:
And on the pins (that will probably need to be replaced, I'm waiting to get new timkens and see how they fit on the pins):
The thick shims are marked:
Overall, the king pins, bearings, and cups are pretty much destroyed, everything will need to be replaced.
That's the only big issue I found on the 2 axles, it could have been much worse!
I forgot to tell you about the hub caps: they were ugly!
But I found some very nice NOS F marked :
Grease seals are the rubber/felt type. I've seen NOS seals advertised as Ford ones with this part number, and Willys ones with a different number.
On passenger side, very nice surprise!!
Judging by the toothed washer marks on the alloy seal bodies, this one has never been moved from where it was, and there's no evidence one was fitted on drivers side, as all stud holes have heavy and consistant washer grind marks.
The two knuckle housings are F stamped (with an artistic feel, maybe Rosie was tired?), and have another stamping I don't recognise.
By the way, I miss 2 bolts and washers, plain, like these: has someone got some spare originals?
The two spindles have big block Fs in the casting, is that a Ford thing? I believe so, as I'll show later the same block Fs with script Fs on the same part, and even a lot of backwards block Fs.
I guess these have the unshouldered bronze inner sleeve, what's the difference? is that a Rzeppa vs Tracta vs bendix feature?
Next are the king pins. There's a lot of play!
Lower pins, both F marked:
But sadly also very dead!
I've found cheap NOS ones, I think I'll change them. Not interesting to change just the pins, as they are the only F marked things on the part, and that would also cost me more than the 2 NOS.
The upper steering levers are also f marked on top:
And on the pins (that will probably need to be replaced, I'm waiting to get new timkens and see how they fit on the pins):
The thick shims are marked:
Overall, the king pins, bearings, and cups are pretty much destroyed, everything will need to be replaced.
That's the only big issue I found on the 2 axles, it could have been much worse!
I forgot to tell you about the hub caps: they were ugly!
But I found some very nice NOS F marked :
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
I then took out and stripped the RZEPPAs.
They look quite decent to me, even if they show some minor wear, where the balls would seat whith wheels straight forward.
Any advice on this would be very welcome!
Didn't see any wear or damage on the inner parts.
The short shaft is fine and F marked, the long one is fine too but markings are too faint to be read.
The four shaft seals were F marked
Moving on to the diff, I had to build what is probably the ugliest tool ever made, to triumph over the yoke's nut:
The yoke is unbranded, I'm a bit worried about the grove left by the seal, I might have to replace it.
Speaking of the seal:
The diff cover is the stamped one, so no markings, all bolts are unmarked, very likely original, all toothed washers are present.
Axle ratio tag was still there:
Inside the diff housing, as expected, everything is marked:
Diff date is 11-09-44, my dod is 5 or 6 december 44, so that's probably the original axle!
Ring Teeth are OK
Diff bearing cups show some pitting, I'll have to replace them (and go through the whole circus of setting the diff... )
Pinion bearings and cups are in very nice conditions and I felt no play at all, can I put these back in?
If I don't touch the pinion shims, will a diff bearing shim set up be enough?
Pinion shims and big washer all marked:
Pinion shaft also:
I can't get bored of finding little F's, here are some on the axle housing, there are probably more:
Strange backwards block F near the diff cover seal
Script f's everywhere:
Nice little markings on the collars that hold the brake line to the axle
If you have one of these, I'll be happy to have it as I only have 3 for the 2 axles.
and unknown marking on the filler cap
And that's all for now, putting pictures takes almost more time than working on the axles, I'll upload the rear axle tomorrow.
Feel very free to comment if you see something wrong/unusual, or to give any advice, I'm quite new to this!
Cheers!
They look quite decent to me, even if they show some minor wear, where the balls would seat whith wheels straight forward.
Any advice on this would be very welcome!
Didn't see any wear or damage on the inner parts.
The short shaft is fine and F marked, the long one is fine too but markings are too faint to be read.
The four shaft seals were F marked
Moving on to the diff, I had to build what is probably the ugliest tool ever made, to triumph over the yoke's nut:
The yoke is unbranded, I'm a bit worried about the grove left by the seal, I might have to replace it.
Speaking of the seal:
The diff cover is the stamped one, so no markings, all bolts are unmarked, very likely original, all toothed washers are present.
Axle ratio tag was still there:
Inside the diff housing, as expected, everything is marked:
Diff date is 11-09-44, my dod is 5 or 6 december 44, so that's probably the original axle!
Ring Teeth are OK
Diff bearing cups show some pitting, I'll have to replace them (and go through the whole circus of setting the diff... )
Pinion bearings and cups are in very nice conditions and I felt no play at all, can I put these back in?
If I don't touch the pinion shims, will a diff bearing shim set up be enough?
Pinion shims and big washer all marked:
Pinion shaft also:
I can't get bored of finding little F's, here are some on the axle housing, there are probably more:
Strange backwards block F near the diff cover seal
Script f's everywhere:
Nice little markings on the collars that hold the brake line to the axle
If you have one of these, I'll be happy to have it as I only have 3 for the 2 axles.
and unknown marking on the filler cap
And that's all for now, putting pictures takes almost more time than working on the axles, I'll upload the rear axle tomorrow.
Feel very free to comment if you see something wrong/unusual, or to give any advice, I'm quite new to this!
Cheers!
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
- Chuck Lutz
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
If you want to save the yoke....a Speedi-Sleeve will solve the problem for 1/4 of the price I think. Yours is REALLY worn, should be a smooth machined surface with no groove.
Chuck Lutz
GPW 17963 4/24/42 Chester, PA. USA 20113473 (USA est./Tom W.)
Bantam T3-C 1947
GPW 17963 4/24/42 Chester, PA. USA 20113473 (USA est./Tom W.)
Bantam T3-C 1947
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
I just googled the speedi sleeve, that's very appealing, thanks for the tip Chuck!
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
Hi again,
Now the rear axle!
Overall, everything is in good conditions.
Diff is identical to the front one, so no need to show it again. All F marked, and dated 11-14-44, 5 days after the front one, 3 weeks before the Jeep's dod, all fine! Pinion shaft is also Ford, as are the shims and the big flat washer/cover. Seal and yoke were unmarked.
Drums are both Ford, all OK again.
One backing plate is Bendix (like the 2 front ones), the other is K marked, and had a F K brake shoe on it.
The other 3 are Bendix, like all on the front.
I'll be happy to swap the K plate and the F K shoe for Bendix ones if someone's interested!
Brake cylinders are identical, but I don't know what brand/model they are?
Pistons, boots and seals are Lockheed.
Drive shafts are in perfect conditions, they have a big script F plus several backwards block Fs.
I am surprised to find two Ford ones, very likely originals, because I've read everywhere that they are one of the things that breaks very often on a Jeep.
Wheel bearings adjustment nuts washers are both F marked (well, one is only 30% of a F marked now )
These were unmarked on the front axle.
Brake line Y bracket is "RH" marked (who's that?) and the axle ratio tag was also present.
Now the rear axle!
Overall, everything is in good conditions.
Diff is identical to the front one, so no need to show it again. All F marked, and dated 11-14-44, 5 days after the front one, 3 weeks before the Jeep's dod, all fine! Pinion shaft is also Ford, as are the shims and the big flat washer/cover. Seal and yoke were unmarked.
Drums are both Ford, all OK again.
One backing plate is Bendix (like the 2 front ones), the other is K marked, and had a F K brake shoe on it.
The other 3 are Bendix, like all on the front.
I'll be happy to swap the K plate and the F K shoe for Bendix ones if someone's interested!
Brake cylinders are identical, but I don't know what brand/model they are?
Pistons, boots and seals are Lockheed.
Drive shafts are in perfect conditions, they have a big script F plus several backwards block Fs.
I am surprised to find two Ford ones, very likely originals, because I've read everywhere that they are one of the things that breaks very often on a Jeep.
Wheel bearings adjustment nuts washers are both F marked (well, one is only 30% of a F marked now )
These were unmarked on the front axle.
Brake line Y bracket is "RH" marked (who's that?) and the axle ratio tag was also present.
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
While the guts are on the surgery table, bones and skin are in the garden sunbathing.
I put all the bits together just to have the feeling that I actually own a Jeep!
I'm working very slowly on the Jeep because I first have to finish this little darling to get some free space in the garage:
I put all the bits together just to have the feeling that I actually own a Jeep!
I'm working very slowly on the Jeep because I first have to finish this little darling to get some free space in the garage:
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
- Chuck Lutz
- Gee Addict
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
Is that a Simca Fabrizio?
By the way....you may want to checl both axels and both outputs of the T/C before you order any Speedi-Sleeves (I am positive there are European versions of this or maybe they are available locally?) as this will solve the leaking from all those locations....the one under the handbrake is especially prone to saturating the brake lining with gear oil!
By the way....you may want to checl both axels and both outputs of the T/C before you order any Speedi-Sleeves (I am positive there are European versions of this or maybe they are available locally?) as this will solve the leaking from all those locations....the one under the handbrake is especially prone to saturating the brake lining with gear oil!
Chuck Lutz
GPW 17963 4/24/42 Chester, PA. USA 20113473 (USA est./Tom W.)
Bantam T3-C 1947
GPW 17963 4/24/42 Chester, PA. USA 20113473 (USA est./Tom W.)
Bantam T3-C 1947
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
Yes SKF is widely distributed in Europe!
I'll try to dig some info on my 4 yokes (marked with some A, 4, A4 to see if they're oem or not, if they are post war I'll probably look for NOS ones, because the holes for the little U bolts are also a bit ovalised.
The car above is a FIAT 500, doesn't show on the pics but I've already changed all the front panel, fenders, and a lot of the floors 100% of the car stripped to metal, then etch primed, etc etc.,
Plus suspensions, engine, gearbox, trans and brakes are fully restaured, up to the last washer.
I'm prepping it for the paint job, and then I'll unleash the staggering 18,5 HP!
I'll try to dig some info on my 4 yokes (marked with some A, 4, A4 to see if they're oem or not, if they are post war I'll probably look for NOS ones, because the holes for the little U bolts are also a bit ovalised.
The car above is a FIAT 500, doesn't show on the pics but I've already changed all the front panel, fenders, and a lot of the floors 100% of the car stripped to metal, then etch primed, etc etc.,
Plus suspensions, engine, gearbox, trans and brakes are fully restaured, up to the last washer.
I'm prepping it for the paint job, and then I'll unleash the staggering 18,5 HP!
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
- Navarre
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
Very nice finds FAbrizio...beautiful F parts!
I like a lot the FIAT 500 and also the Mini ...it looks to be an injection model from late 90s. I love Minis...I owned a 1973 Mini Cooper (made in Spain by AUTHI).
Keep up the good work
I like a lot the FIAT 500 and also the Mini ...it looks to be an injection model from late 90s. I love Minis...I owned a 1973 Mini Cooper (made in Spain by AUTHI).
Keep up the good work
"Praise the Lord and pass the ammunition"
Ford GPW 86534 DoD 12-11-42...in progress!
Resto thread: viewtopic.php?f=144&t=198728
Ford GPW 86534 DoD 12-11-42...in progress!
Resto thread: viewtopic.php?f=144&t=198728
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
Thanks Navarre!
The mini is a late (1992) limited series "British open", with webasto electric roof, and it's a 1275cc low compression but with a SU carb
The mini is a late (1992) limited series "British open", with webasto electric roof, and it's a 1275cc low compression but with a SU carb
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
- roblenzz
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
Nice progress. Gotta say that when I saw your hood with the off set "USA" and unbroken circle around the star I was anxiously looking at your hood number. Looks a lot like the one my grandfather rode in, well the application and placement of the markings.
See how the right side of the jeep the "USA" is up by the windshield and towards the front of the jeep on the driver's side?
Watching your build Good luck
See how the right side of the jeep the "USA" is up by the windshield and towards the front of the jeep on the driver's side?
Watching your build Good luck
'42 GPW
'43 GTB
'51 Dunbar Kapple M100
'42 Converto trailer
'42 Mk II USN bomb cart
'44 Mk III USN bomb trailer
Friend/Modeler PT Boats.org
'43 GTB
'51 Dunbar Kapple M100
'42 Converto trailer
'42 Mk II USN bomb cart
'44 Mk III USN bomb trailer
Friend/Modeler PT Boats.org
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Re: Rebuild of GPW 238336
Hi roblenzz!
The hood I got with the jeep turned out to be an earlier one, from a 43 gpw.
The numbers are quite a mess, because I have (thanks to Tom W. for the info):
-blue factory 20413699, 12/43 GPW
-same ones but white "field"
-then a 2019666 from a..MA that makes no sense
-and finally a 20504038, summer 44 MB.
So I don't know if the USA you talk about are wartime or not.
I can't see how a g503 hood would get a MA number, but if postwar, then why does it have this 44 MB number, with stencils and quality way under restauration standards. And then a lot of OD oversprays, plus the bubba yellow, plus the car being abandonned for many many years before I bought it. A lot of misteries!
BUT I found something nice about this hood:
The blue 20413699 is 99,99% sure factory, look at this one: in a LCT for Normandy (june 9) and just 28numbers away!
Note the extras on the jeeps: mg mounts (looks like some even have two??), fording kits,water cans pass. side...
So a gpw that was parked 28 jeeps away from my hood at the Ford plant ended up landing on Normandy on d-day +3!
We'll probably never know about mine, but that's close!
My neighbour also has a nice Jeep with the "chaplain" on the windshield, because his name is Chaplain! I'll try to take a picture of it.
The hood I got with the jeep turned out to be an earlier one, from a 43 gpw.
The numbers are quite a mess, because I have (thanks to Tom W. for the info):
-blue factory 20413699, 12/43 GPW
-same ones but white "field"
-then a 2019666 from a..MA that makes no sense
-and finally a 20504038, summer 44 MB.
So I don't know if the USA you talk about are wartime or not.
I can't see how a g503 hood would get a MA number, but if postwar, then why does it have this 44 MB number, with stencils and quality way under restauration standards. And then a lot of OD oversprays, plus the bubba yellow, plus the car being abandonned for many many years before I bought it. A lot of misteries!
BUT I found something nice about this hood:
The blue 20413699 is 99,99% sure factory, look at this one: in a LCT for Normandy (june 9) and just 28numbers away!
Note the extras on the jeeps: mg mounts (looks like some even have two??), fording kits,water cans pass. side...
So a gpw that was parked 28 jeeps away from my hood at the Ford plant ended up landing on Normandy on d-day +3!
We'll probably never know about mine, but that's close!
My neighbour also has a nice Jeep with the "chaplain" on the windshield, because his name is Chaplain! I'll try to take a picture of it.
GPW #3606 “LIBBY”
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
"Jeep is America's only real sports car." - Enzo Ferrari
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