Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
I am making real progress on those springs. I got the Torque Reaction Spring clip on, installed the lower and upper rear spring hanger bolts through after greasing them up real good, and the single rear spring hanger bolt on the passenger side. Should I not tighten them real hard until I get the front shackle bolts on? Also do I grease up those front shackle bolts real good before putting them in? It is my hope to get these done by this weekend and finally get that chassis out of the garage and paint the engine and frame the correct colors.
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
I would wait untill the shackles and pivots are installed before lubing, it is less messy, and best to leave untill after painting.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
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HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
I need some advice. I have got the rear leaf spring pivot bolts in and the U bolts tightened down and now am working on the front shackle bolts. I started with the drivers side since it has the wackey threading direction.
I am having an issue where it does not look like my leaf brand new leaf spring is lining up with the frame horn shackle bracket. How do I move the leaf spring over to align with the bracket? I sure hope you guys have come across this before and it is a simple fix, especially after getting this far. I already have the brackets riveted in and welded too:
I am having an issue where it does not look like my leaf brand new leaf spring is lining up with the frame horn shackle bracket. How do I move the leaf spring over to align with the bracket? I sure hope you guys have come across this before and it is a simple fix, especially after getting this far. I already have the brackets riveted in and welded too:
- hell-fire
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
This is simple as I had the same problem, loosen the 2 U bolts on the stubborn side & take a little weight off the housing & try the shackle again, it worked for me & all is perfect now.
John
Australia
Member VMVC #192
1942 Willys MB-BRT 135673 D.O.D. 4-16-42 Now 97% finished
Australia
Member VMVC #192
1942 Willys MB-BRT 135673 D.O.D. 4-16-42 Now 97% finished
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
John,
thanks so much for your reply. What "housing" are you referring to?
thanks so much for your reply. What "housing" are you referring to?
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
I generally would leave the u-bolts slightly loose, so that the leaf assemblies can shift about a bit until you get the shackles installed. Then go ahead and put on the final torquing of the u-bolts. I remind you again to retorque them after your first drive, and a couple more times until you are satisfied that they are holding their torque.
The spring pivot bolts need to be tightend securely, then backed off two cotrter pin holes, so that the spring eye can be free to move in the frame bracket. The splined end of the bolt next to the hex head is suposed to keep the bolt from rotating, the cotter pin keeps the nut from backing off any further.
A little grease inside the spring eyes and on the threads of the shackle nuts helps in assembly. After assembly, you can clean off any exposed grease with paint thinner or carb spray, then paint them. Lube completely after painting, as Ben suggested.
Note: It was common Motorpool SOP to paint the ends of the shackle bolts and spring pivot bolts with a red or yellow dot to remind the maintenance personel and/or drivers that they needed to be greased regularly!
The spring pivot bolts need to be tightend securely, then backed off two cotrter pin holes, so that the spring eye can be free to move in the frame bracket. The splined end of the bolt next to the hex head is suposed to keep the bolt from rotating, the cotter pin keeps the nut from backing off any further.
A little grease inside the spring eyes and on the threads of the shackle nuts helps in assembly. After assembly, you can clean off any exposed grease with paint thinner or carb spray, then paint them. Lube completely after painting, as Ben suggested.
Note: It was common Motorpool SOP to paint the ends of the shackle bolts and spring pivot bolts with a red or yellow dot to remind the maintenance personel and/or drivers that they needed to be greased regularly!
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- lucakiki
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
Yes, paint circles around greasing points is a neat touch, and the practice is mentioned in manuals, but I would rather do it in red.
Luca
WillysMB#344142 6-19-44 Navy N.S.Blue Grey
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WillysMB#344142 6-19-44 Navy N.S.Blue Grey
45 Bantam T-3 #57248 1-10-45
42 Willys MB-T #13560 11-42
43 Willys MB-T # 25417 4-43
Way too many WWII military tools,hopefully thinning down,and way too many posts...
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
The Spring Pivot Bolts are torqued to 27-30 Ft/Lb, a Willys factory Spec. Best not to back the nuts off, except maybe a whisker to insert the Cotter Pind in the Castellated Nuts.
A Willys factory and TM Spec. To back them off and leave them loose is going to increase wear at the Pivot Bolt and Spring Pivot Bushing.
Follow the TM. Page 209, TM9-803 will give you proper spring installation., Also install the Pivot Bolts with the grease holes (and grooves) toward the Chassis.
Many of the present day Pivot Bolts being sold are off in length or style and are not a match of the OEM. When I need correct Spring Pivot Bolts I go to my nearest FLAGG chassis suspension distributor or dealer and order their duplicates of the WO-384228. The Spring Shop Dealers that sell Flagg have a catalog with illustrations making it easy to select original type. I do not have the Flagg No. at hand as it has been a few years, but I saved some for spares should I ever wear out the ones on my Jeep.
This is important to note as the aftermarket suppliers to the restoration dealers do not always supply correct Pivot Bolts.
A Willys factory and TM Spec. To back them off and leave them loose is going to increase wear at the Pivot Bolt and Spring Pivot Bushing.
Follow the TM. Page 209, TM9-803 will give you proper spring installation., Also install the Pivot Bolts with the grease holes (and grooves) toward the Chassis.
Many of the present day Pivot Bolts being sold are off in length or style and are not a match of the OEM. When I need correct Spring Pivot Bolts I go to my nearest FLAGG chassis suspension distributor or dealer and order their duplicates of the WO-384228. The Spring Shop Dealers that sell Flagg have a catalog with illustrations making it easy to select original type. I do not have the Flagg No. at hand as it has been a few years, but I saved some for spares should I ever wear out the ones on my Jeep.
This is important to note as the aftermarket suppliers to the restoration dealers do not always supply correct Pivot Bolts.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
Success!?
I went by Home Depot, bought a 36 inch crow bar and had the flared end sawed off. It was the perfect diameter to slide thru the bracket hole and bear down to bend the bracket straight on the drivers side.
Please take a look at the photos below and let me know what you think. I am puzzled about the spacing on the rubber shoulder side of the shackle U bolts. I have backed them out and re-threaded each twice and still come up with the same spacing.
I went by Home Depot, bought a 36 inch crow bar and had the flared end sawed off. It was the perfect diameter to slide thru the bracket hole and bear down to bend the bracket straight on the drivers side.
Please take a look at the photos below and let me know what you think. I am puzzled about the spacing on the rubber shoulder side of the shackle U bolts. I have backed them out and re-threaded each twice and still come up with the same spacing.
- hell-fire
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
Looks ok to me Rodney, when you start driving the Jeep again it will pay to go over everything with your spanners & re-tighten anyway, to me it is looking good.
John
Australia
Member VMVC #192
1942 Willys MB-BRT 135673 D.O.D. 4-16-42 Now 97% finished
Australia
Member VMVC #192
1942 Willys MB-BRT 135673 D.O.D. 4-16-42 Now 97% finished
- zepher11
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
Way to go Rodney! Looking good. Keep up the good work!
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
Thanks Zeph!
And Hellfire thank you too!
And Hellfire thank you too!
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
Made some progress the weekend and today. I am so thankful to be done with those front gussets and leaf springs so I can move on to other stuff now. Thanks to everybody for helping me through those leaf springs and shackles. Thanks to everyone for their encouragement too, it makes a difference.
I moved the rolling chassis out of the garage along with the body I just got back from my borother in law. The stand I built is working pretty well.
Getting to look more like a GPW with the gray and 33070 paint:
Is this a correct master cylinder (almost afraid to ask considering all the incorrect bubba junk that I have had to replace already)?
Got the body back from my brother in law. He welded the windshield skin onto the outer frame, the sump, the hat channel next to the sump, the pioneer panel I got from jeep parts plus, the taillight brackets, the crossmember brackets, relocated the taillight holes to the right spots, installed the shock towers (remember bubba had the others on backwards):
How do I straighten the lower end of the circle where it is crooked?:
The sump and hat channel:
The pioneer section:
Do I just need to take a grinder to everything and smooth it out?
I moved the rolling chassis out of the garage along with the body I just got back from my borother in law. The stand I built is working pretty well.
Getting to look more like a GPW with the gray and 33070 paint:
Is this a correct master cylinder (almost afraid to ask considering all the incorrect bubba junk that I have had to replace already)?
Got the body back from my brother in law. He welded the windshield skin onto the outer frame, the sump, the hat channel next to the sump, the pioneer panel I got from jeep parts plus, the taillight brackets, the crossmember brackets, relocated the taillight holes to the right spots, installed the shock towers (remember bubba had the others on backwards):
How do I straighten the lower end of the circle where it is crooked?:
The sump and hat channel:
The pioneer section:
Do I just need to take a grinder to everything and smooth it out?
- zepher11
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
Rodney,
Wow! Looking good! I wish I could answer your question on the brake master cylinder, but not too sure how to identify. I just removed mine yesterday and it had a plastic cap which I know isn't vintage. I believe the metal filler cap on yours is closer to period than the plastic one on mine. Other than that I can't offer too much more. The engine is looking good in grey. I need to paint mine as well. I have now realized that I have a GPW head, starter..etc, but the block is a CJ... Oh well, since it runs so well I'll hold on to it until I find a suitable replacement.
Keep up the good work!
Wow! Looking good! I wish I could answer your question on the brake master cylinder, but not too sure how to identify. I just removed mine yesterday and it had a plastic cap which I know isn't vintage. I believe the metal filler cap on yours is closer to period than the plastic one on mine. Other than that I can't offer too much more. The engine is looking good in grey. I need to paint mine as well. I have now realized that I have a GPW head, starter..etc, but the block is a CJ... Oh well, since it runs so well I'll hold on to it until I find a suitable replacement.
Keep up the good work!
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Re: Motorpool Restoration 1943 GPW 124269
Thanks Zeph!
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