My new 1954 M38A1
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
I removed the first can today after 48hrs in the vinegar. The rust washed away with water. I hit it w/a wire wheel to remove any other loose paint, etc. I just laid down a light layer of self etching primer about 10min ago. I'll do a nice thick layer and then begin w/the paint. I'll post pictures when the first can is complete.
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Here are some pictures of what I have now. The thick layer of primer is currently drying. I'll give it an hour or so and then apply the first layer of paint. I am using Rustoleum grey primer and will be using Rustoleum red semi-gloss for the final coat.
#1 & #2: the fuel can when I started
#3: after first light coat of primer
#4: after the final thick coat of primer.
#1 & #2: the fuel can when I started
#3: after first light coat of primer
#4: after the final thick coat of primer.
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Well here is the 1st finished product. My goal was so have a functional fuel can (with no rust) and if it ended up looking good in the process...then great...but looking fabulous wasn't a requirement. So purely function over form. The first can turned out well. It's obviously not show quality due to the pitting on the steel and a few other things but for my goals (a can that holds fuel and doesn't rust) I am calling this a win.
I did the "cap" in a flat black rustoleum enamel because 1. I dig the 2-tone look and 2. it was the only other paint I had in my garage.
I also picked up two new cap seals off eBay. They arrived yesterday. Now I'm ready to carry fuel.
Let me know if y'all have any questions.
I did the "cap" in a flat black rustoleum enamel because 1. I dig the 2-tone look and 2. it was the only other paint I had in my garage.
I also picked up two new cap seals off eBay. They arrived yesterday. Now I'm ready to carry fuel.
Let me know if y'all have any questions.
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Things on the jeep are going to start moving along fairly quickly. I decided to pull $2-3K from my savings to get the jeep back on the road. My goal is to have everything done before I leave for the TX DPS academy in May.
I sat down & made two lists. One list was "essential things the jeep needs to get back on the road" and the other is "things I would like to have on the jeep but don't actually need".
Over the last two days I ordered everything on the "essential things" list.
Those include: replacement steering wheel, horn button repair kit, hard brake line kit (master cylinder, soft lines, and axle end brake parts have already been done), radiator cap, 5 tires, 5 tire tubes, ignition switch (and wires, and dash plate), thermostat kit (housing, t-stat, and gasket), 2nd seat cushion, and replacement wiring harness (my harness is super tired).
the items on my "would be nice to have" list include:
throttle/choke cables, carb kit (carb runs well enough to enjoy the jeep but it's not perfect), soft top, exhaust system, shocks front/rear, lockout hubs (Front axle), cargo mat for the cargo area, jerry can bracket spacers, seat pouches, replacement glass.
I'll update this thread ASAP as things arrive and get installed.
I sat down & made two lists. One list was "essential things the jeep needs to get back on the road" and the other is "things I would like to have on the jeep but don't actually need".
Over the last two days I ordered everything on the "essential things" list.
Those include: replacement steering wheel, horn button repair kit, hard brake line kit (master cylinder, soft lines, and axle end brake parts have already been done), radiator cap, 5 tires, 5 tire tubes, ignition switch (and wires, and dash plate), thermostat kit (housing, t-stat, and gasket), 2nd seat cushion, and replacement wiring harness (my harness is super tired).
the items on my "would be nice to have" list include:
throttle/choke cables, carb kit (carb runs well enough to enjoy the jeep but it's not perfect), soft top, exhaust system, shocks front/rear, lockout hubs (Front axle), cargo mat for the cargo area, jerry can bracket spacers, seat pouches, replacement glass.
I'll update this thread ASAP as things arrive and get installed.
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Today I finally stopped letting my pinion yoke push me around. I FINALLY got it removed and changed my pinion seal.
The yoke has been fighting me for about 6mo now. I found a puller from HF which would fit through the ujoint bolts. Even then it wouldn't budge with just hand tools. I had to break out the air impact and it STILL fought me the entire way off the splines.
Mission Accomplished though
The yoke has been fighting me for about 6mo now. I found a puller from HF which would fit through the ujoint bolts. Even then it wouldn't budge with just hand tools. I had to break out the air impact and it STILL fought me the entire way off the splines.
Mission Accomplished though
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Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
I hit my first sang last week
I took my old wheels/tires to the "local" tire shop to have the old tires removed. This was done because my new tires are arriving tomorrow (monday). When the old tires were removed I realized my wheels are actually 8in+ in width. This is a problem because the new tires I just ordered are made for a 4.5in wheel (The stock M38a1 wheel width)
well I decided to just bite the bullet and err on the side of caution.
I am going to return the 15in tires I bought from summit and the tubes I bought from kaiser willys. Once the returns are processed I am going to purchase 16in tires, tubes, and wheels. I figured that since I am going to need to buy wheels I might as well purchase the right size.
Now this leads to another question. The standard M38A1 wheels are fairly inexpensive but I am being tempted by another....
The combat wheels for GPWs are attracting my attention. Specifically the ability to unbolt the two wheel pieces and change tubes on my own w/out having to drive to a tire shop. I should mention that I live out in the boonies and my closest tire shop is 40mi one-way drive from my house. The HUGE con here is price for the wheels & all the extras needed to run combat wheels (wheel flaps, stem protectors, etc).
I am having a tough time deciding if the extra expense is worth the ability to repair tires on my own. What are y'alls thoughts? Has anyone run GPW wheels and just been blown away by how awesome they are? At this point in time I am leaning more towards cost savings and going w/the M38A1 wheels.
Here is a basic breakdown of the costs:
tires & tubes: $744
(I need these either way)
5 M38A1 wheels total 674.60
5 GPW wheels (& extras) total 948.85
I took my old wheels/tires to the "local" tire shop to have the old tires removed. This was done because my new tires are arriving tomorrow (monday). When the old tires were removed I realized my wheels are actually 8in+ in width. This is a problem because the new tires I just ordered are made for a 4.5in wheel (The stock M38a1 wheel width)
well I decided to just bite the bullet and err on the side of caution.
I am going to return the 15in tires I bought from summit and the tubes I bought from kaiser willys. Once the returns are processed I am going to purchase 16in tires, tubes, and wheels. I figured that since I am going to need to buy wheels I might as well purchase the right size.
Now this leads to another question. The standard M38A1 wheels are fairly inexpensive but I am being tempted by another....
The combat wheels for GPWs are attracting my attention. Specifically the ability to unbolt the two wheel pieces and change tubes on my own w/out having to drive to a tire shop. I should mention that I live out in the boonies and my closest tire shop is 40mi one-way drive from my house. The HUGE con here is price for the wheels & all the extras needed to run combat wheels (wheel flaps, stem protectors, etc).
I am having a tough time deciding if the extra expense is worth the ability to repair tires on my own. What are y'alls thoughts? Has anyone run GPW wheels and just been blown away by how awesome they are? At this point in time I am leaning more towards cost savings and going w/the M38A1 wheels.
Here is a basic breakdown of the costs:
tires & tubes: $744
(I need these either way)
5 M38A1 wheels total 674.60
5 GPW wheels (& extras) total 948.85
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- Jeep Heaven
- Posts: 49841
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:37 pm
- Location: Proving Ground
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Install original type 16" wheels, try to buy the ones made for M-38/M-38A1. You will have no problems. Combat wheels rust from inside out, especially when used off road in mud and water.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Thanks for the reply sir. I don't really want to deal with heavy rust w/the combat wheels. After some soul searching and consultations with the forum gods, I have decided to go with my original plan of m38a1 wheels so I can use that extra money for other m38a1 parts. The combat wheels are super cool (And look super cool) but I can't justify the price difference.Ben Dover wrote:Install original type 16" wheels, try to buy the ones made for M-38/M-38A1. You will have no problems. Combat wheels rust from inside out, especially when used off road in mud and water.
On another note, the first load of parts arrived today. thermostat kit, horn button repair kit, steering wheel, and seat pouches.
UPS should be delivering another load of goodies around 3-ish this afternoon.
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
A few things happened today. I had one success and a few fails. Also, some more toys arrived today.
The 15in tires were shipped back as were my 15in tubes. Santa AKA UPS brought my new ignition switch (with wires), radiator cap, passenger seat, and on/off switch for my ignition switch. My 16in tires should be here thursday.
I have to give some credit to summit racing. Their customer service was AMAZING with my tire exchange. I was expecting to be jumping through hoops...but I was totally mistaken. I made one phone call which lasted about 15min and that was it. They sent the shipping/pickup info directly to UPS and they sent out my new tires same day. I was expecting them to say "oh well once we recieve your old tires we will send the new ones out" like most places. I was very impressed.
I made it home from work around 630pm and installed the new seat/seatback/cargo pouch on the pass seat (and then put the seat in the jeep). It has been over two years since I originally removed the pass seat.
Todays Fails:
-I went to install new radiator cap and found the locking tabs were too wide for my radiator. I am going to trim down the tabs so it will fit.
-I have been fighting my steering wheel for a few days now (trying to remove so I can replace). I removed the nut & am taking steps to protect the threads during my work. I have applied wd40 & jbweld for the past few days. I have tried a 2 jaw puller (stripped out the main bolt), 3 jaw puller (breaking welds on the steering wheel), and two big c-clamps with a piece of 1/4in flat stock (bent flat stock).
I decided to bite the bullet and buy a "real" steering wheel pulller from kaiser willys. I really didnt want to spend the money but I don't really have a choice.
The 15in tires were shipped back as were my 15in tubes. Santa AKA UPS brought my new ignition switch (with wires), radiator cap, passenger seat, and on/off switch for my ignition switch. My 16in tires should be here thursday.
I have to give some credit to summit racing. Their customer service was AMAZING with my tire exchange. I was expecting to be jumping through hoops...but I was totally mistaken. I made one phone call which lasted about 15min and that was it. They sent the shipping/pickup info directly to UPS and they sent out my new tires same day. I was expecting them to say "oh well once we recieve your old tires we will send the new ones out" like most places. I was very impressed.
I made it home from work around 630pm and installed the new seat/seatback/cargo pouch on the pass seat (and then put the seat in the jeep). It has been over two years since I originally removed the pass seat.
Todays Fails:
-I went to install new radiator cap and found the locking tabs were too wide for my radiator. I am going to trim down the tabs so it will fit.
-I have been fighting my steering wheel for a few days now (trying to remove so I can replace). I removed the nut & am taking steps to protect the threads during my work. I have applied wd40 & jbweld for the past few days. I have tried a 2 jaw puller (stripped out the main bolt), 3 jaw puller (breaking welds on the steering wheel), and two big c-clamps with a piece of 1/4in flat stock (bent flat stock).
I decided to bite the bullet and buy a "real" steering wheel pulller from kaiser willys. I really didnt want to spend the money but I don't really have a choice.
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Update on the jeep progress:
-I forgot to mention I placed my order for a new wiring harness earlier this week (monday). I had planned on repairing my original harness but it was too tired to bring back to life. So far it has been the most expensive part of this build @ $800. That charge was a hard pill to swallow....but i had to have it.
-UPS picked up the 15in tires for return to summit
-UPS dropped off my new hard brake line kit.
-My new 16in tires will be here tomorrow (thursday). I am going to order my new wheels next week after I get paid.
-I forgot to mention I placed my order for a new wiring harness earlier this week (monday). I had planned on repairing my original harness but it was too tired to bring back to life. So far it has been the most expensive part of this build @ $800. That charge was a hard pill to swallow....but i had to have it.
-UPS picked up the 15in tires for return to summit
-UPS dropped off my new hard brake line kit.
-My new 16in tires will be here tomorrow (thursday). I am going to order my new wheels next week after I get paid.
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
exciting news!
I ordered the last item in my "must have for the jeep to run" list. Those items were the wheels, tubes, and tire flaps. I decided to pull some money from my savings and order the tires now vs waiting.
My goal was to spend 2K on the "must haves" and at the moment I am at $3045. I went quite a bit over my planned budget....but I wasn't expecting to purchase 5 wheels or an expensive steering wheel puller when I set my budget goal (those two items were $700 alone) .
Here is the breakdown of my costs as they stand now. All prices are rounded to the nearest dollar and shipping is included in the amount. I live in the boonies and am forced to order a large amount of my jeep stuff online. My shipping costs greatly increase the prices of some parts...but that is the cost of living in rural texas. I tried my best to find eBay sellers & jeep suppliers who offered free shipping.
62 Steering Wheel
17 horn button kit
19 radiator cap
79 hard brake like kit
597 wheels
675 tires
89 tubes
145 tube flaps
79 ignition switch
30 ignition switch wires (douglas connectors to new plastic connectors)
28 ignition switch on/off plate
25 t-stat kit
100 seat cushion & canvas (bottom & back)
109 seat pouches
886 wiring harness w/extra connectors
105 steering wheel puller from kaiser willys
I ordered the last item in my "must have for the jeep to run" list. Those items were the wheels, tubes, and tire flaps. I decided to pull some money from my savings and order the tires now vs waiting.
My goal was to spend 2K on the "must haves" and at the moment I am at $3045. I went quite a bit over my planned budget....but I wasn't expecting to purchase 5 wheels or an expensive steering wheel puller when I set my budget goal (those two items were $700 alone) .
Here is the breakdown of my costs as they stand now. All prices are rounded to the nearest dollar and shipping is included in the amount. I live in the boonies and am forced to order a large amount of my jeep stuff online. My shipping costs greatly increase the prices of some parts...but that is the cost of living in rural texas. I tried my best to find eBay sellers & jeep suppliers who offered free shipping.
62 Steering Wheel
17 horn button kit
19 radiator cap
79 hard brake like kit
597 wheels
675 tires
89 tubes
145 tube flaps
79 ignition switch
30 ignition switch wires (douglas connectors to new plastic connectors)
28 ignition switch on/off plate
25 t-stat kit
100 seat cushion & canvas (bottom & back)
109 seat pouches
886 wiring harness w/extra connectors
105 steering wheel puller from kaiser willys
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- Jeep Heaven
- Posts: 49841
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:37 pm
- Location: Proving Ground
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Flaps are not necessary on standard drop center wheels such as those that came with CJ and M-38/M-38A1.Best return the flaps-not necessary, and also confirm that the inner Tubes have the short TR-15 Stem, it is a short fat stem approx. 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" high. Many places will sell truck tubes with a 3 or 4" Stem that has to be bent out of the way and can get damaged by rocks and tree stumps.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
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- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Ben Dover wrote:Flaps are not necessary on standard drop center wheels such as those that came with CJ and M-38/M-38A1.Best return the flaps-not necessary, and also confirm that the inner Tubes have the short TR-15 Stem, it is a short fat stem approx. 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" high. Many places will sell truck tubes with a 3 or 4" Stem that has to be bent out of the way and can get damaged by rocks and tree stumps.
Thanks. I have been told both ways on the necessity of wheel flaps in the standard M38A1 wheels so I wasn't sure which way to go. If I can do so safely I would like to return the flaps and use the money for more jeep toys.
I will be sure to check my tubes when they arrive.
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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- Jeep Heaven
- Posts: 49841
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:37 pm
- Location: Proving Ground
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
Flaps never were used in the solid Jeep rims, they were, however an expedient used to replace the Bead Lock in restored Combat Wheels.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
-
- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:35 pm
- Location: Memphis, Texas
Re: My new 1954 M38A1
I come bearing great news.
My obstinate steering wheel is no more! It is amazing how easy certain tasks can be when you have the right tools.
My kaiser-willys steering wheel puller arrived this morning. When I made it home from work I assembled it and installed it on the jeep. Within 3min I have the old wheel removed. I am glad I bit the bullet and spent the money for a "real" puller.
In other news:
-my new tires arrived yesterday
-my new wiring harness arrived today
-my wheels & tubes will be here monday
old wheel removed
new wheel installed
My obstinate steering wheel is no more! It is amazing how easy certain tasks can be when you have the right tools.
My kaiser-willys steering wheel puller arrived this morning. When I made it home from work I assembled it and installed it on the jeep. Within 3min I have the old wheel removed. I am glad I bit the bullet and spent the money for a "real" puller.
In other news:
-my new tires arrived yesterday
-my new wiring harness arrived today
-my wheels & tubes will be here monday
old wheel removed
new wheel installed
Chris
1954 M38A1
1954 M38A1
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