My new 1954 M38A1

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Ben Dover
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Ben Dover » Sat Mar 18, 2017 4:20 am

Did those Pop Rivits come with the plates? If not, too bad you did not post a pic of the rivets furnished. It is easy to "set" the correct brass rivets using just a center punch with the head supported on just a piece of steel plate or your shop anvil, they will flatten out just right.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
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Maverick1701
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Maverick1701 » Mon Mar 20, 2017 5:40 pm

Ben Dover wrote:Did those Pop Rivits come with the plates? If not, too bad you did not post a pic of the rivets furnished. It is easy to "set" the correct brass rivets using just a center punch with the head supported on just a piece of steel plate or your shop anvil, they will flatten out just right.
No sir. The the data plates and the mounting panel are original to the jeep. I only had to purchase replacement pop rivets (since I drilled out my original ones for the data plate restore). I need to do some searching for some flush mount pop rivets.

I ended up taking my carb to the local mechanic for the rebuild since he is the expert...also because he has a glass bead blaster so he was able to REALLY clean out the crud in the carb I bought off FB (and there was A LOT of crud).

I picked it up about 20min ago on the way home from work. The plan is to install it sometime this evening (if I don't get called out). I am waiting on my new hard fuel lines to arrive. Once those get here I can throw them on and hopefully rock & roll.

Here are a few before/after pictures of the carb
carb unclean.jpg
dirty
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clean 1
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clean 2
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Chris

1997 4x4 Ford Expedition

2003 KLR650 Motorbike

1967 6x6 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 w/winch

1954 M38A1

M998 HMMWV (work toy)

Ben Dover
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Ben Dover » Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:49 am

The correct type Brass Rivets (RIVET, Tubular, oval-hd, 1/8" X 1/8") are out there at some of the dealers. You need 24 and a few extras just in case. :wink:
Find a steel plate to use, set them with a center punch and finish the job using a small ball peen hammer to spread the rivet smooth. That's one of the uses of a ball peen hammer.

Do not use Brake Shoe Rivets, they will work but have a flat head with printing on them. Oval Head is original. Some of you may have M-38 and M-38A1 Jeeps that have brake shoe rivets installed as that is what Army Support Units have handy for brake jobs.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO

Maverick1701
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Maverick1701 » Wed Mar 22, 2017 4:25 pm

I was off work today and REALLY churned & burned on the Jeep.

I started the day by installing the carb and hooking up all the odds & ends. I lubed the choke & throttle cables so they actually actuate now. I'm waiting on my new fuel lines to arrive. They should be here Tuesday according to ups tracking.

After that quick job I removed the PTO (Koenig Model-51). This project took most of the day if you include cleaning up the PTO after removal. I ended up splitting open the case while still installed on the jeep for two reasons. 1: I was having clearance issues reaching the final bolt needed to removal 2: the other bolts had fallen into the PTO after removal.

I am glad I did split the case because....wow...it was full of water!!!!! This water was probably from 1990 when the jeep was last operable. I was able to remove the case clean everything up (interior, exterior), lube the chain and put everything back together (thankfully the interior was not full of rust). The exterior of the case was a mess and cleaning took several hours with a wire wheel, wire brush, and screwdriver scraping.

After removal of the PTO I installed the cover plate on the x-fer case with 5 new bolts & gasket since I am not going to run a PTO. What is the value of a Koenig-51 these days? I would like to sell it and put the proceeds back into the jeep.

After I tacked that job I installed my e-brake handle, and e-brake mechanism under the jeep. I ordered a new e-brake connecting rod from KW because I couldn't find the one I bought off eBay. Of course...wouldn't ya know it...the day after I order a new one I found the old one...doh.

My next project was quick/easy since I getting tired & hungry. I installed new shiftier boots on the x-mission and x-fer case.

I have a few more parts coming in via snail mail. e-brake rod, fuel lines, new wiper arms/blades. all these should be here in a few days.

Attached are some pictures of the PTO cleanup project. Enjoy!

opening the pto
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opening the PTO
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exterior clean
3.jpg
exterior clean
3.jpg (205.93 KiB) Viewed 448 times
interior clean
2.jpg
interior clean
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putting humpty-dumpty back together again
4.jpg
putting humpty-dumpty back together again
4.jpg (89.47 KiB) Viewed 448 times
Chris

1997 4x4 Ford Expedition

2003 KLR650 Motorbike

1967 6x6 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 w/winch

1954 M38A1

M998 HMMWV (work toy)

Maverick1701
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Maverick1701 » Fri Mar 24, 2017 8:08 pm

I was able to sell my PTO on my M38A1 Facebook group. Coincidentally, the buyer was the same guy who sold me the carburetor. The plan is to put the proceeds right back into the Jeep.

Late last night I went to connect the horn switch (so I could test my original horn). Being dark outside, I didn't see the frayed wires on the switch...because it was 1230-1am. Well, when I plugged in the wires I had a shower of sparks. I was able to pull the wires (I only had the interior plastic connector connected since I as just testing wires) before anything caught fire...but it was an impressive show nonetheless.

I was able to remove the horn switch with the help of an impact, cutting the wires, and a prybar. I replaced the switch wiring with some wires I saved from my old harness. I tested switch functionality with a voltmeter before re-installing...removing the switch is not a job I want to do more than once. The switch repair tested good and was re-installed. I now have power to my horn wire when the horn button is pressed. **thumbs-up**

During work today I was able to run to Oreillys in Childress TX which is about 40mi away (the closest auto parts store to me). I had to pick up two little brass fittings for my fuel pump. I needed to turn 180* and move up approx 1in to clear my fuel pump housing. I figured that buying two fittings was easier and had less risk than trying to do a tight 90* downward bend in my new hard fuel lines. These fittings were the last parts I needed for the fuel system. I turned over the motor and had fuel to the carb with NO fuel leaks **thumbs-up #2**

Unfortunately, for some reason I was unable start the motor. I began to troubleshoot.

I removed the plugs to see what I could see. It turns out I am not getting any spark. Also, all four plugs showed signs of dry fouling which usually is a symptom of running rich/carb issues (if I remember correctly). I have only run these plugs twice (they were purchased new when I originally got the jeep running) so I am going to attribute the dry fouling to running the motor with the original crappy/leaky old carb. I cleaned the carbon from the plugs and reinstalled the plugs on the wires. I grounded the plugs to the block while cranking and still could not see any spark (when I originally got the motor running 1.5yr ago I was able to see spark by grounding the plugs)

Now, the spark plug wires are also new and are still in great condition (purchased the same time I bought the plugs).

My next step is to make sure I am getting power to the distributor (since that is the next easiest job). If I have power to the distributor I may have to open up my distributor which I really don't want to do. Opening up the dist is breaking new ground for me and, honestly, makes me a little nervous (especially if I have to mess with finding TDC and all that headache).

I had to quit tonight due to mother nature not playing nice. I'll report back when I know more.
Chris

1997 4x4 Ford Expedition

2003 KLR650 Motorbike

1967 6x6 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 w/winch

1954 M38A1

M998 HMMWV (work toy)


Maverick1701
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Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:35 pm
Location: Memphis, Texas

Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Maverick1701 » Sun Mar 26, 2017 7:43 pm

Last night I decided to break new ground in my automotive experiences. I opened the distributor and did some maintenance. This was my first time to EVER open a dist. I cleaned all contacts, set my points gap (.020), and lubricated everything before re-assembly. The whole process was much easier that I thought it would be. Apparently distributors are pretty simple things, but in my mind I had them made out as some super complex machine which will break if I touch it wrong.

Unfortunately it wasn't all butterflies & roses.....I had one casualty. One of the spark plug wires decided to get stuck in the distributor cap (when I was removing the wires to open the dist) and the tip broke during forceful removal. Unfortunately a new set of wires is between $220-$250 and they are only sold in sets of 4....because why wouldn't they be.

I don't really want to dish out $250 for just one wire if I can avoid it. I posted up on my M38A1 facebook group asking if anyone had a spare wire they would sell me. It looks like I found a guy who will sell me one of his spares. Once it arrives I can hook it up and see if my plugs have spark. If I still don't have spark then the issue is probably related to the condenser. Thankfully, a distributor repair kit is only $40 and comes with new points, rotor, and condenser. So if I have to go that route it will be a super cheap fix.
Chris

1997 4x4 Ford Expedition

2003 KLR650 Motorbike

1967 6x6 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 w/winch

1954 M38A1

M998 HMMWV (work toy)

Ben Dover
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Ben Dover » Mon Mar 27, 2017 4:51 am

Spark Plug Wire tip. Tighten the wires in the cap just a bit more than snug. Tighten the ones in the plugs just hand tight unless you are going fording. What happens when you over tighten is that it can curl that thin wire edge on the brass threads of the cap, and can roll the thin edge at the top of the spark plug barrel inwards. This causes the red rubber insulators to lock into the cap or sparkplug and cause damage when the wires are pulled on.
This is how careful army mechanics did it back then.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO

Maverick1701
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Maverick1701 » Wed Mar 29, 2017 10:25 pm

Ben Dover wrote:Spark Plug Wire tip. Tighten the wires in the cap just a bit more than snug. Tighten the ones in the plugs just hand tight unless you are going fording. What happens when you over tighten is that it can curl that thin wire edge on the brass threads of the cap, and can roll the thin edge at the top of the spark plug barrel inwards. This causes the red rubber insulators to lock into the cap or sparkplug and cause damage when the wires are pulled on.
This is how careful army mechanics did it back then.
thanks for the tip sir! I will definitely heed your advice & not over-tighten again.

The other day I installed two new wiper arms and blades on the windshield. I also installed the hand-brake rod which connects the in-cab handle to the x-fer case mechanism. Thank god for the military manuals. They made the process super easy and explained the required tolerances between the brake shoes & x-fer case mounted drum (.010).

I have the M38A1 re-assembled (front clip & windshield) for the first time in just over 2 years. All I have left is to zip-tie up a few unused wires under the dash and install my new spark plug wire. If I have spark, then I'm ready to go enjoy my Jeep.

I need to test and see if my dist cleaning fixed my no-spark issue. I want to open the dist and see if I can see spark jumping the points...but it takes two people. I can not press the under-dash foot starter button and see the open distributor at the same time. I am going to bug a co-worker of mine to see if he can swing by and hit the starter for me (I'm an unmarried man so I can't just ask my wife or kids for an assist).

I just ordered a dual battery monitor (NOT the controller model w/the solenoid) made by National Luna, a south african company. Sierra Exped had them on sale for $70. They do play nice with 24v systems which is a huge plus. I have always wanted one in my vehicle (not for any particular reason...I just think they are cool & handy) so I finally pulled the trigger.

Link to the instructions (24v at bottom of pdf): http://www.nationalluna.com/Datasheets/ ... onitor.pdf

I'll report back with the spark test results and some pictures of humpty-dumpty finally back together again.
Chris

1997 4x4 Ford Expedition

2003 KLR650 Motorbike

1967 6x6 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 w/winch

1954 M38A1

M998 HMMWV (work toy)

Ben Dover
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Ben Dover » Thu Mar 30, 2017 5:02 am

I have always used a wooden hammer handle to work the 24 Volt M-38A1 Starters from under the hood, started sharing that trick to other GI's since around 1960. You can put the handle between the floorboard and the lever on the switch and pull toward the radiator. Let me know how a hammer handle works. :wink:
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO

Maverick1701
G-First Sergeant
G-First Sergeant
Posts: 134
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:35 pm
Location: Memphis, Texas

Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Maverick1701 » Mon Apr 03, 2017 6:52 pm

Ben Dover wrote:I have always used a wooden hammer handle to work the 24 Volt M-38A1 Starters from under the hood, started sharing that trick to other GI's since around 1960. You can put the handle between the floorboard and the lever on the switch and pull toward the radiator. Let me know how a hammer handle works. :wink:
That "wooden hammer" trick worked pretty dang well. thanks for the tip sir!!


I COME BEARING MAJOR JEEP NEWS!! IT'S ALIVE!!!

Today the last few parts I needed arrived via snail-mail (distributor rebuild kit, spark plug wire, & YOM plates).

When I made it home from work I installed my 1952 TX license plates (I am going to run YOM plates). I then changed the guts of the distributor and BOOM I had nice, solid spark. I then re-assembled the dist. & spark plug wires. I hopped in and after about 20seconds of cranking she roared to life!!! This is the first time it has been re-assembled in 2 years and only the 2nd time it has run since the early 90s (the first time was when I did a compression test when I first purchased it).

So naturally I removed the jack stands, grabbed my co-pilot (my chocolate lab) and drove it around town, down some county roads and gave it an all around good shake-down run. I have a few more things I would like to do (new exhaust system, shocks, etc) but none of that is required. It is drive-able in its current state...and let me tell ya.... I am planning on driving the snot out of it.

This could not have happened w/out help from everyone on this forum. Thanks y'all so much for answering my dumb questions & listening to me rant about my jeep progress.

Attached are some pictures of the maiden voyage. Enjoy!!!
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new license plates
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Chris

1997 4x4 Ford Expedition

2003 KLR650 Motorbike

1967 6x6 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 w/winch

1954 M38A1

M998 HMMWV (work toy)

Ben Dover
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Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 2:37 pm
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Ben Dover » Tue Apr 04, 2017 5:05 am

That monitor is a neat Gadget. There's nothing that compares with that first trip into the unknown in a Army Jeep, it's a good feeling, especially if it brings you back to the launch pad. The tinkering and new Do-Dads that you order will make your day. The icing on the cake will be when it is back in uniform. :wink:
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO

Maverick1701
G-First Sergeant
G-First Sergeant
Posts: 134
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:35 pm
Location: Memphis, Texas

Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Maverick1701 » Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:25 pm

I took the Jeep for a drive today and ended up doing a partial "walk of shame".
It began mis-firing and then...poof...he's dead Jim.

I called a local buddy/farmer who towed it back to the house while I steered. During the tow I tried popping the clutch to see if the jeep would start. The Jeep would start but it wasn't happy. I could hear it mis-firing and would only run at higher RPMs.

We got it back home and I started troubleshooting. Fuel= check. Compression= check. Spark= nada. I removed the plug wires and opened up the dist. I immediately noticed that my points were not opening far at all. I re-re-adjusted the points and this time I made double-triple-extra sure I tightened down the securing screw this time extra tight. Once my points were adjusted I did another spark check. I noticed that my spark would start out strong and quickly decline to no spark at all.

I checked my contacts where the condenser, points, & coil all connect. I cleaned it up a little and had no change in my spark issue.

I am thinking my issue is possibly a bad condenser since it seems to not be holding the charge required to give me a good solid spark. What are y'alls thoughts? Thanks.
Chris

1997 4x4 Ford Expedition

2003 KLR650 Motorbike

1967 6x6 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 w/winch

1954 M38A1

M998 HMMWV (work toy)

Ben Dover
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Posts: 40354
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 2:37 pm
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Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Ben Dover » Thu Apr 06, 2017 6:58 am

Be careful not to pinch the two Primary Lead Wires between the cap and edge of the coil, they can ground out.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO

Maverick1701
G-First Sergeant
G-First Sergeant
Posts: 134
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:35 pm
Location: Memphis, Texas

Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Maverick1701 » Thu Apr 06, 2017 5:39 pm

Ben Dover wrote:Be careful not to pinch the two Primary Lead Wires between the cap and edge of the coil, they can ground out.
awesome tip, sir. Thank you. So far I have been able to avoid pinching any wires *knock on wood*

I went ahead and ordered a new 24v coil & condenser. I figured I might as well replace both while I have the dist opened up.
They should be here either saturday or monday (hopefully saturday) depending on how quickly USPS works their magic.
Chris

1997 4x4 Ford Expedition

2003 KLR650 Motorbike

1967 6x6 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 w/winch

1954 M38A1

M998 HMMWV (work toy)

Ben Dover
Gee Addict
Posts: 40354
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 2:37 pm
Location: Proving Ground

Re: My new 1954 M38A1

Post by Ben Dover » Fri Apr 07, 2017 5:15 am

Be careful not to buy any of those shiny silver aftermarkets, they are junk. If you pay under $100.00, chances are it will be one of the poor quality off shore coils. Your problems may not be as bad as you think. Double check your work (Don't wrench the spark plug wires too tight.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO

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