POR 15. Yes pr No?

[army_inc]

OK, so I've done some reading about POR 15 and I know the hazards of it, but dealing with byrellium copper at work as well I think I know the safety precautions that I need to take. Anyways, has anyone used it on the frame? What were the results? Which would be a faster options, sandblasting or POR 15. I have to rent a sandblaster so I was thinking the pOR 15 would be a faster and cheaper option. Any thoughts?

[raymond]

I've used POR 15 on lots of stuff. Probably the closest thing to a frame I've used it on was an old boat trailer. I roughly wire brushed it and then brushed it on. On the really bad spots I hit it a second time and used an oil based paint over top of it. It dries and turns rust into an almost rock hard material.

Raymond

[army_inc]

so basically just wire brush and apply it? Just the POR or the prep stuff as well? Where can I pick this stuff up from locally? Or is it special ordered?

[dfield]

This is a good topic. I am thinking of using POR 15 myself.

Dave

[Dave M38A1]

Have used POR 15. Not easy to put on because it stays on your skin for weeks. Don't wear short sleeves, shorts, get in your hair. I would'nt put in a spray gun,so brushing it is the way to go. Good gloves, long sleeves,hat. Works well, stays on. Need Tie Coat Primer to top coat if it dries. Instructions say to apply top coat when it has a slight finger drag. Hard to tell when that is. Had couple of places where it peeled up, probably the time between coats. but it really stays. Sanded them with 220 grit and re-applied. I like the idea of spraying it on, so next time I might try something else. If you use the POR, keep laquer thinner to clean off your hands quickly, leave a few minutes and it will stay. Some guys like the Eastwood stuff. I found Nason's chassis paint and may top coat the POR on the Civilian frame. Just to make it look more factory. I scotch brighted the wheel wells on my son's Jeep and herculined the wheel wells, POR on the frame has held up well, lots of off-roading, doesn't chip but did flake off where a big rock bent the skid plate but that doubled over the metal. Since it dries faster in moist environments, drying time changes.

Got my fuel tank repaired and they put on POR. I used tie coat primer and sprayed Gillespie. Worked fine.

Each time I do it it gets easier.

Last time I used Pickle -X 20, sprayed some rust bullet type stuff, then epoxy primer and Gillespie paint.

Thanks,

Dave

[Dave M38A1]

The stuff I sprayed on my springs and frame was called Zero Rust.
http://zero-rust.com/?referrer=google&gclid=CMr0lrujpbACFUdN4AodlVugXw

The metal prep I last used on the springs after wire brushing, and/or sand blasting was Picklex 20.
http://picklex20.com/

Put Picklex 20 on to neutralize the rust, scotch-bighted the white spots and sprayed on Zero Rust, then Gelespie.
Worked well seems to hold up fine.
Liked it because clean up was easier and I could spray it.

Dave

[Duke113P]

Another yea for POR-15,

I have an M38A1 I am working on and still driving. Gas tank was really bad, few pin holes etc... I bought POR 15's fuel tank sealer kit, over a year ago now... works fantastic! Also the primer works amazingly well as well. It is all about the surface prep. Do not polish the metal with your abrasives. POR 15 will peel in those areas. this stuff likes the roughness, also I highly recommend using it on Combat rim insides... and regular rims inside. Fuel tank wells and any other water concentrating area you can think of. Good stuff... and brush it on is the best, be sure to mix it really really good even when your painting it on. Wear safety gear, gloves etc, stuff does not come of the skin...only with time.

[Dave M38A1]

Maybe that's why it peeled in a couple of places not enough grip. Sanded it down and re applied, worked well.
Dave

[raymond]

POR 15, Corroseal, Rustreform, and other rust converters work by converting iron oxide (rust) into iron tannate. To work properly, they need a thin film of rust. Without that film, it will have a harder time adhering to bare clean steel.

http://www.alan.net/prgshoptips/rustconv.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter

Raymond

[WesG]

POR is fine if you're not dis-assembling the frame. Blasting and real Epoxy primer is the longest lasting and most profesional looking thing you can do if body is off frame.

Wes