Teach Me How to Install Glass

1950 - 1952, M38, questions, discussions, regarding anything related to the M38.
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Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by dpcd67 » Tue Oct 10, 2017 2:59 pm

Ok, ready to have the glass cut and I will install it. I have the rubber. I have never installed glass in a one piece frame before and it is not the same as the WW2 Jeep and Dodge frames I have done many times.
So, any tips? I was going to take the frame to my glass shop and have them cut the glass.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by artificer » Tue Oct 10, 2017 3:47 pm

Not sure of this particular Jeep vehicle windscreen fitment or whether it is a rubber pull in type.mount but most of that era were.

If so, with the glass fitted to the rubber, a piece of 1/8" nylon type cord is wrapped around the outer rubber groove.
Fit the rubber top or bottom as much as possible so one can use the cord ends to pull/lever the glass & seal into place from the inside of the vehicle.

If sealing is a potential issue not excessive sealant can be gun applied to the groove before/where the glass/cord is fitted.
This makes things messy but is easily cleaned off with a suitable solvent.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by dpcd67 » Tue Oct 10, 2017 5:24 pm

The rubber has a groove for the glass and one opposite for the windshield frame. 90 degrees to that is another groove for a triangular shaped locking rubber strip. Which looks impossible to get into that little groove.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by artificer » Wed Oct 11, 2017 1:02 am

Using an old hardened/weathered rubber can be problematic.
That locking strip bead is rolled in after you have done as instructed. Just like fitting a fly screen.
Use of talcum powder can make fitting this part easier.
If the glass is correct dimensionally, as original, both rubbers pliable then the lock strip will fit easily.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by D Pizzoferrato » Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:46 am

The proper tool to insert the lockstrip is a must. https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-365-000 ... B00NL4275S
Here is the type shown in the manuals
Image
Here is an inexpensive alternative https://www.dkhardware.com/general-purp ... JoQAvD_BwE
I like the original style as it keeps the lock strip almost parallel to the groove.
As John says, put the glass in the rubber. I usually use masking tape to help hold the sides and top together. When putting the gasket around the glass, run a piece of mason's line around the perimeter groove, starting and ending near the bottom center. Insert as much of the gasket as you can across the bottom of the frame. This is where it gets real. Firmly grasp both ends of the mason's line and apply enough pull to remove it from under the gasket, pulling inward. When you get to the lower corners and sides, where the gasket lip in not yet wrapped to the inside, have a helper apply very light pressure to the outside of the gasket, near the edge on both sides. The helper's job is to only apply enough pressure to keep things moving along and only where the gasket is in close proximity to the frame. This should be no more than merely running the flat of his (or her) hands along with the line pull. The line will do all of the heavy work. You want to pull the line inward, which will pull the gasket lip inward. This needs to be accomplished, with your helper, in a symmetrical manner. As you work both sides upward, the top will pull in closer. Go around the top corners as a team. Symmetry is key here. When you reach the top center with your pull line, the hard part is done. I usually use a good dousing of dish soap along the gasket to make things slick. The masking tape will tear away as you progress with the line pull. Once the gasketing is complete, install the locking strip. Start at the bottom center and work around being careful not to stretch the strip during install. Lube may be necessary here as well. If you stretch the strip, it will shrink back to it's intended size and leave a gap at your joint. It may be useful to occasionally push back on the insertion tool to relieve any stretch. If you lube with dish washing liquid, it will go much more smoothly. As John mentioned talc as a lube, it's worth a try, although I've always used dish soap. The drawback to dish soap is that you will have lots of suds in the rain until it is all rinsed away.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by dpcd67 » Wed Oct 11, 2017 7:19 am

Good advice. I always use Dawn on other glass installs. My rubber is new and very pliable.
The locking strip is not round, it is triangular so it has to go in only one way. I guess I will have to get one of those tools. Thanks, never saw one of those before.
Another question; where does the seam go? On the bottom, I presume?
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by D Pizzoferrato » Wed Oct 11, 2017 3:32 pm

Yes, seam on the bottom. I was involved in a discussion some years ago as to which side of the frame should the locking strip be on. One of the guys spent considerable time poring over period pictures and was convinced that the strip would go to the inside. No chance of water infiltration in his way of thinking. I'm convinced, based on many encounters with unmolested original vehicles, that it goes to the outside.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by dpcd67 » Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:54 pm

OH! yes that was my next question but I assumed the locking strip goes on the inside. Outside makes no sense but I will do what is original.
thanks.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by artificer » Wed Oct 11, 2017 11:44 pm

No matter what vehicle that type beading goes to the outside.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by D Pizzoferrato » Thu Oct 12, 2017 3:43 am

If you consider the mechanics of the locking strip and the forces acting upon the front of the windshield glass, it makes perfect sense that it goes to the outside.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by Joe Gopan » Thu Oct 12, 2017 4:05 am

Every intact M-38, CJ-3A and CJ-3B Windshield I have witnessed since the 50's has the locking strip on the back side of the windshield. Check the pics in your TM's and Factory service manuals. M-38A1 and CJ-5 was Just the opposite. Also check out the pics in the M-38 Gas Heater installation manual.
Perhaps the reason the M-38A1/CJ-5 have the lock strip on the outside may be due to those two windshields havinf raised defroster ducts that could hinder installation.
This has been addressed a few times over the past 3 or 4 years.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by dpcd67 » Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:05 am

Wow.
Ok, I will take my frame to the glass shop to cut the glass to size, and install it myself. They always cut my glass when I take them the frames.
As for the glass size, I assume it needs to be the same size as the frame, minus the 1/4 inch of the rubber seal web, all around. Right?
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by Radtech » Thu Oct 12, 2017 2:39 pm

According to the M38 TM the strip goes on the inside.The glass company tech who cut and installed my M38 glass said the insert always goes on the inside but some installers put it on the outside because it is easier to install that way rather than the correct way.
Last edited by Radtech on Thu Oct 12, 2017 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by dpcd67 » Thu Oct 12, 2017 2:52 pm

Ok, which is what all the pictures show. I will do that in spite of everyone else saying they go on the outside.
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Re: Teach Me How to Install Glass

Post by Joe Gopan » Thu Oct 12, 2017 4:20 pm

dpcd67 wrote:
Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:05 am
Wow.
Ok, I will take my frame to the glass shop to cut the glass to size, and install it myself. They always cut my glass when I take them the frames.
As for the glass size, I assume it needs to be the same size as the frame, minus the 1/4 inch of the rubber seal web, all around. Right?
See if they have a CJ-3A Pattern. Many Auto Glass shops used to have patterns.
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