traaqnsfer case

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old man
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traaqnsfer case

Post by old man » Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:07 pm

it looks like I need to replace the seals on the transfer case for the front drive shaft.
I have manuals 9-2320-218-20 and 20 p. not real clear instructions and diagrams to do this. is there another manual that shows this procedure better?

also to check the fluid level in the transmission is this the plug with an allen wrench head on the drivers side. kind of hard to get at? with it leaking as much as it is I do not care to take the cover off all the time, so I am leaving it off until I get things fixed

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muttguru
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Re: transfer case

Post by muttguru » Wed Nov 29, 2017 2:28 am

Whatever you do....DO NOT touch that "fill" plug with the allen-key socket. That plug is the reverse idler arm retainer and if you unscrew it, the idler arm will drop down inside the transmission and you won't be able to retrieve it without removing the top of the trans and fishing it out with a magnet. Keep off ! There's only ONE fill plug which serves both the transmission and transfer and it's much lower down on the side of the transmission than you'd expect.

Image

As for replacing the front seal.....go here...read this ! http://g838.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6457
It will save you a lot of heartbreak.
Ken
Kind Regards, Ken muttguru@aol.com
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Never mind..."I think it's ok"...Check it again !

Surveyor
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Re: traaqnsfer case

Post by Surveyor » Wed Nov 29, 2017 4:27 pm

Additional info written by Ken....

the front seal can be done with the transmission/transfer in place. It's not easy. I tackled my leaking front seal two weeks ago. The rear seal as you know is housed in a removable flange which makes things easy. Why oh why could the front end not be the same? I asked myself as everything went wrong.
I drilled small holes in the face of the front seal with the intention of using self-tapping screws inserted into the holes to give me some leverage (this was Rick's preferred method which he posted recently). I then discovered that I couldn't find screws that would stay in place firmly enough to prise out the seal. Eventually I used a flat-bladed screwdriver as a punch/chisel/lever and by tapping the top of the seal inwards, I could then lever out the bottom edge of the seal. So far, so bad.
I cleaned up the surround and applied some gasket goo to the new seal shell but instead of taking the time to look for my seal driver, I decided to tap the new seal into place with a small rubber mallet. Well, the seal went in, unevenly. The top edge of the seal hung up on the casing while the bottom edge went in too deep. No matter what I did, the seal wouldn't straighten up and it started to become deformed so there was only one thing to do and that was to lever out the new seal.
I was fortunate to have a spare seal on hand, and this time I did it by the book. The seal and the output yoke now work as they were intended to do.
The moral of the story?
1. Make sure you have ALL the parts BEFORE starting the job.
2. Make sure you have ALL the tools to hand.
3. Take your time. Have a break or two in between each step...it's amazing how a cup of tea can speed up a successful task.

As for the use of wear sleeves on the yokes, this is how the system works.
If your existing yoke(s) were a good fit on the shaft, but the face of the yoke had a groove worn into the surface where the seal touches, then kits were supplied for the Mil to use. The use of wear sleeves was more cost-effective than replacing worn yokes with new ones. These kits contained wear sleeves plus new seals which had an internal diameter slightly LARGER than the old seal (so as to take into account the wear sleeve added to the yoke.
However, if you are buying NOS yokes, then the seals you need should be the standard seal diameter. I don't know what is in the kit you have ordered, but if it contains wear sleeves for the yokes, then you MUST USE the wear sleeves even though your yokes are new....the seals you will get in the kit will be matched to the wear sleeves.
You can of course use the new yokes without the wear sleeves but if you do this, then you will have to obtain STANDARD seals.
Let me know if this makes sense.
Ken
1960 M151 Run #1 (working on it)

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