Electronic Temperature Gauge
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Electronic Temperature Gauge
Has anyone installed an electronic temperature gauge on a Jeep engine?
What I am referring to is a setup where the sensor is installed and then a wire from the sensor goes to the gauge. This eliminates the standard gas filled tube that goes to the sensor.
Does anyone know where I can buy a setup that has the gauge and the sensor?
Thanks
Jerry Hudgens
What I am referring to is a setup where the sensor is installed and then a wire from the sensor goes to the gauge. This eliminates the standard gas filled tube that goes to the sensor.
Does anyone know where I can buy a setup that has the gauge and the sensor?
Thanks
Jerry Hudgens
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
I would suggest FLAPS, Speedway Motors, JC Whitney (are they still around?) Summit, Jegs, etc, etc.
back in the day when everything had idiot lights and we would install gauges, I didn't trust the electronic gauges, I installed mechanical ones, like our jeeps have. BW
back in the day when everything had idiot lights and we would install gauges, I didn't trust the electronic gauges, I installed mechanical ones, like our jeeps have. BW
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
You are going to be real hard pressed to find a 6 volt electric temperature Gage. (This is assuming that you have a 6 volt system.) I believe a company called Westberg Mfg. has made them in the past. They are the ones that make or made Westac Tachometers.
Roger
Roger
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
Thanks for the response. I am going to see what I can find.
Jerry Hudgens
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
https://www.ebay.com.au/p/?iid=142096215947&&&chn=ps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Stewart ... 2284236140
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Stewart ... 2284236140
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
Stewart Warner has a line of round Gauges similar to Jeep The bezels may be plated. They will have matching electrical senders with bushing to fit the head. Measure the hole in the dash, it may be 2-1/8".
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
Joel to my knowledge Stewart Warner no longer makes 6 Volt. Or at least none of my catalogs show them. The last catalog (that I have) showing 6 Volt is 1968 vintage.
On the Ebay Stewart Warner that John is showing he will have to find a 6 Volt sender to go along with it. # 362AM, 362B, or 362J depending what thread size you need. They might be hard to find.
Roger
On the Ebay Stewart Warner that John is showing he will have to find a 6 Volt sender to go along with it. # 362AM, 362B, or 362J depending what thread size you need. They might be hard to find.
Roger
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
I tried, it's been at least 30 years since I sourced Stewart Warner Instruments.
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HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
I hate to admit it but what I am looking for is a gauge setup for my Massey Fergusen tractor which I have converted to 12 volts.
I can buy a mechanical gauge without any problems. But, when I try to remove the sender to flush out the cooling system, I always ruin the sender because I cannot get it to come loose and I always twist and break the sender,
My guess is if I try to remove the sender from my GPW that the same thing will happen and as you know its difficult to get a gauge for the GPW.
With an electronic setup, you can disconnect the wire and then you can remove the sender if it has pipe threads.
Anyway, thanks for the responses. I have found an electronic set up (12 volts) at O'Reilly's Auto Parts but I don't Know what the threads are on the sender. I have to go to the store and see if they have any info on it.
Jerry Hudgens
I can buy a mechanical gauge without any problems. But, when I try to remove the sender to flush out the cooling system, I always ruin the sender because I cannot get it to come loose and I always twist and break the sender,
My guess is if I try to remove the sender from my GPW that the same thing will happen and as you know its difficult to get a gauge for the GPW.
With an electronic setup, you can disconnect the wire and then you can remove the sender if it has pipe threads.
Anyway, thanks for the responses. I have found an electronic set up (12 volts) at O'Reilly's Auto Parts but I don't Know what the threads are on the sender. I have to go to the store and see if they have any info on it.
Jerry Hudgens
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
If you are going from a mechanical gauge to an electronic gauge, you will have change the adaptor fitting that screws into the engine.
The fitting that holds the bulb into the adaptor that screws in to the engine is not pipe thread.
The electric sending unit is pipe thread.
You will need to get an adaptor that is external pipe thread to fit the engine and internal pipe thread to fit the electric sending unit.
The fitting that holds the bulb into the adaptor that screws in to the engine is not pipe thread.
The electric sending unit is pipe thread.
You will need to get an adaptor that is external pipe thread to fit the engine and internal pipe thread to fit the electric sending unit.
Mike Wolford
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AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
Mike,
Thanks for the reply. What I intended to do is use the mechanical sensor fitting that goes into the engine (actually a casting at the top of the engine that the top radiator hose fits onto) and then braze a pipe nipple or bushing or other suitable pipe fitting onto the mechanical sensor fitting. The pipe nipple or fitting would be sized to fit the electronic sensor pipe threads. The mechanical sensor fitting is actually pretty large and I am confident that I can build an adapter to fit a sensor's pipe threads.
I could actually use my 1968 Mustang Electronic sensor (it is pipe thread) but the problem is I have no idea what the specs are for gauge that fits on the dash panel. My Mustang uses 5 volts which is established by a mechanical regulator which I have replaced with my own design for an electronic voltage regulator.
My only problem is finding out the true specifications for an electronic sensor and gauge setup.
Jerry
Thanks for the reply. What I intended to do is use the mechanical sensor fitting that goes into the engine (actually a casting at the top of the engine that the top radiator hose fits onto) and then braze a pipe nipple or bushing or other suitable pipe fitting onto the mechanical sensor fitting. The pipe nipple or fitting would be sized to fit the electronic sensor pipe threads. The mechanical sensor fitting is actually pretty large and I am confident that I can build an adapter to fit a sensor's pipe threads.
I could actually use my 1968 Mustang Electronic sensor (it is pipe thread) but the problem is I have no idea what the specs are for gauge that fits on the dash panel. My Mustang uses 5 volts which is established by a mechanical regulator which I have replaced with my own design for an electronic voltage regulator.
My only problem is finding out the true specifications for an electronic sensor and gauge setup.
Jerry
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
Are we working your MF tractor now ? I was a certified MF tractor tech. back when I worked at an MF dealership. That was a long time ago.
The Ford sending unit wont work with an after market gauge for the reason you gave. Chrysler used a voltage reducer, years ago, for the instruments. Caused all kinds of problems. Voltage variations from the reducer made the gauges read all over the scale.
An after market sending unit and gauge, made to work together on 12 volts is the ticket.
The sending unit or bulb is up by the thermostat. I think changing the screw in bushing, the unit screws into would be easier, but I know you. If you want to braze something, that would work too.
Some body is knocking on my door. Gotta go.
The Ford sending unit wont work with an after market gauge for the reason you gave. Chrysler used a voltage reducer, years ago, for the instruments. Caused all kinds of problems. Voltage variations from the reducer made the gauges read all over the scale.
An after market sending unit and gauge, made to work together on 12 volts is the ticket.
The sending unit or bulb is up by the thermostat. I think changing the screw in bushing, the unit screws into would be easier, but I know you. If you want to braze something, that would work too.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Some body is knocking on my door. Gotta go.
Mike Wolford
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VEP GPW
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AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
Mike,
Thanks for the reply. As you suggested, once I get a setup that includes the sensor, I will try using a threaded the fitting if I can fit the new sensor. Otherwise I will either braze or silver solder a fitting for the sensor.
You are right about the voltage regulators. On my 68 Mustang, it was a mechanical regulator that worked with a bi-metallic strip that heated up and then cooled of so that the duty cycle resulted in a 5 volt output with 12 volts input. I was "restoring" this regulator when I accidentally screwed it up. So I designed and built an electronic regulator that now puts out exactly 5 volts and is stable as one can be. My gauges all work fine now.
As for my old T-20/T-30 Fergusen tractor, I have become kind of an expert on it. We had to have the starter re-built and converted to 12 volts because we could not find a new starter that would fit. We also completely re-built the lift including a new pump, cylinders, etc. The tractor is in excellent shape (in my opinion) and is strong and works like a champ. In the process of flushing the cooling system, I twisted off the sending unit/sensor for the mechanical temperature gauge. This is the third time I have done that because I can never get the sending unit/sensor to come loose. That is the reason I want to go to an electronic unit. I am afraid this is what is going to happen when I try to take the sensor out of my GPW. Just in case, I bought from Ron the re-production temperature gauge which to me is a perfect re-production. It really looks good and is a quality part (in my opinion). I think it was done by MV Spares.
Again, thanks for the comments
Jerry
Thanks for the reply. As you suggested, once I get a setup that includes the sensor, I will try using a threaded the fitting if I can fit the new sensor. Otherwise I will either braze or silver solder a fitting for the sensor.
You are right about the voltage regulators. On my 68 Mustang, it was a mechanical regulator that worked with a bi-metallic strip that heated up and then cooled of so that the duty cycle resulted in a 5 volt output with 12 volts input. I was "restoring" this regulator when I accidentally screwed it up. So I designed and built an electronic regulator that now puts out exactly 5 volts and is stable as one can be. My gauges all work fine now.
As for my old T-20/T-30 Fergusen tractor, I have become kind of an expert on it. We had to have the starter re-built and converted to 12 volts because we could not find a new starter that would fit. We also completely re-built the lift including a new pump, cylinders, etc. The tractor is in excellent shape (in my opinion) and is strong and works like a champ. In the process of flushing the cooling system, I twisted off the sending unit/sensor for the mechanical temperature gauge. This is the third time I have done that because I can never get the sending unit/sensor to come loose. That is the reason I want to go to an electronic unit. I am afraid this is what is going to happen when I try to take the sensor out of my GPW. Just in case, I bought from Ron the re-production temperature gauge which to me is a perfect re-production. It really looks good and is a quality part (in my opinion). I think it was done by MV Spares.
Again, thanks for the comments
Jerry
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
I thought you were working on a newer MF tractor. TO-20 and TO-30 MF tractors are almost as old as I am !
Little grey tractor. looked kinda like a 9N Ford.
Continental engine. Parts are really scares.
The hydraulics would leak down with age. If it got bad enough, the lift arms would "Hunt". Constantly work up and down. The warmer the hyd. oil got, the worse the hunting would get. Common for the lift arms to settle when parked with the engine off.
Problem was either worn control valve and washers in the Scotch Yoke pump or lift cylinder piston seals. Or all of the above.
The other common problem was jerking when lifting. That was bad check valves in the piston heads. Took a special tool to cut the intake and exhaust seat at the same time. I have not seen one of those in many years.
The tool that is. I had a TO-20 in the shop a couple weeks ago.
Flash back !![Cool 8)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Continental engine. Parts are really scares.
The hydraulics would leak down with age. If it got bad enough, the lift arms would "Hunt". Constantly work up and down. The warmer the hyd. oil got, the worse the hunting would get. Common for the lift arms to settle when parked with the engine off.
Problem was either worn control valve and washers in the Scotch Yoke pump or lift cylinder piston seals. Or all of the above.
The other common problem was jerking when lifting. That was bad check valves in the piston heads. Took a special tool to cut the intake and exhaust seat at the same time. I have not seen one of those in many years.
The tool that is. I had a TO-20 in the shop a couple weeks ago.
Flash back !
![Cool 8)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
Mike Wolford
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
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Re: Electronic Temperature Gauge
Not to belabor the discussion but our old tractor is actually a Fergusen; not a Massey Fergusen.
I have been able to get some parts from our local Massey Fergusen dealer and they have excellent parts look up and illustrations on computer. I was totally surprised.
Fergusen built the TO-20 and TO-30 before the company merged and became Massey-Fergusen. The nameplate is still good and in excellent shape. It lists a whole bunch of patents.
When we re-built the lift we were able to get parts from companies off the web. The only real problem we had was the starter since all of the listed starters (we actually bought one) are too long and will not fit with clearance between the bell housing and the distributor.
Jerry
I have been able to get some parts from our local Massey Fergusen dealer and they have excellent parts look up and illustrations on computer. I was totally surprised.
Fergusen built the TO-20 and TO-30 before the company merged and became Massey-Fergusen. The nameplate is still good and in excellent shape. It lists a whole bunch of patents.
When we re-built the lift we were able to get parts from companies off the web. The only real problem we had was the starter since all of the listed starters (we actually bought one) are too long and will not fit with clearance between the bell housing and the distributor.
Jerry
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